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Possible all of the power outlets are fed from a common source and somehow the source died or became disconnected.
Little point replacing fuses without also testing that power is reaching each fuse and leaving each fuse. I suggest you obtain a test lamp and use it, following a wiring diagram if necessary.
will need a micrometer, valve clearance adjustment tool set for shimmed lifters,small magnetic arm, appropriate shim selecting charts (manufacturer will have this if you can get the nec. measurements).
Measure thickness of shims removed (using micrometer) and use this formula where T=Thickness of old shim; A=Valve clearance measured; N=Thickness of new shim required.
Intake valves: N = T + (A - 0.02 mm (0.008 in.)) Exh. valves: N = T + (A - 0.25 mm (0.010 in.))
Then you need to find shims as close as possible to the calculated values.
Valve clearances (cold) are as follows: Intake0.15 - 0.25 mm (0.006 - 0.010 in.) Exhaust0.20 - 0.30 mm (0.008 - 0.012 in.)
Note, if you are not familiar with precision measuring using a micrometer, this may be better left to a trained tech. These are high revving little power plants and you don't want a problem at 8K rpm.
Really no way to do this. A micrometer is usually part of every store that sells rotors. Even if they do not turn rotors, they still need to know if yours are safe.
Hello! I do not believe this is a security issue...The Battery Light is telling you that the charging system has a fault...One of three possibilities exist...# 1...The battery can no longer hold a charge... # 2...The Alternator is defective...Or # 3...The cables that interconnect power and ground are corroded and resistive...Do you have a voltmeter and a wee bit of experience using one?...If not send a comment...Set the meter to rear +12 volts...Place the meter probes directly in the center of the battery post...Record the reading...Jump start the vehicle...Quickly remove the jump cables and while the engine is still running, take the same reading again...The second reading must be 1.8 to 2 volts higher than the first...This tests the alternator...If alternator is good...Have the battery tested...Clean cables (on both ends) if necessary...
When the battery, alternator and cables are correct, the battery light will go out...At that point in time the engine should start...If not, then we have other issues and I'll fix them if necessary...
The battery needs to be registered to reset the energy data that is stored in the vehicle.Without this being done you may run into short battery life and possibly energy consumers shutting down (ie the blower not working at full speed)
well first you will need to hard wire the fan to the battery to determine if the fan is good. then You will need to check the fuse/relay for radiator/AC fan. after that if necessary, check the engine coolant temperature sensor, could be faulty, this sensor tells the computer when the engine is hot enough to turn the fans on
OK that's different...First, you will need to check the battery for 12v. (no testing can be done without proper voltage there) Lights working does not tell you this. You will need to do a code check before replacing any parts. Without testing there are numerous possible causes and it will cost you $$$ to replace all of them before "hitting" on the right solution. (you just found that out by replacing the pump.) There are other individual component tests you can do using a digital volt/ohmeter. Offhand, the first place I'd check is the crankshaft position sensor. They are notorious for this kind of failure BUT don't replace it till you test it! post back with any questions and results you get. (in other words, we are not finished yet!!)
you have to remove all the screws that are holding the center console in the floor and remove it and then once you remove the console yo can access the bulb to the shift indicator
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