SOURCE: 1998 Honda Accord EX V6 2 Door - Radio Error Code on Display
No-one is ever particularly happy to here this, but this is the way it is; we do have to keep in mind that the original idea of codes on radios was to prevent people who steal them from being able to use them.
So, if an audio unit with theft protection is disconnected from electrical power, you must enter a unique code number into the unit or it will not work. This code and the audio unit’s serial number are listed on the anti-theft ID card that comes with the vehicle. If this card is lost, you must obtain the audio unit serial number in order to get the radio code (some people say that they have found the code on a sticker inside the glove compartment, but I wouldn’t count on that). Some newer vehicles allow you to retrieve the audio unit serial number electronically from the radio. Refer to your owner’s manual for the specific procedure (the following usually will work: Turn the radio off. Push the preset 1, preset 6, and power buttons at the same time, then quickly release. The serial number will come up in two sets of numbers.)
Some older vehicles (model year 2003 and older) require a visit to the dealer in order to retrieve the audio unit serial number (or you can remove the unit and get the serial number from the back of the radio). Once you have the audio unit serial number, you can call Auto Customer Service at (800) 999-1009 or have the dealer look up the radio code.
Here is the URL for the Honda Owner page. If you register (no charge) you are able to get radio codes using the VIN number of your car, the serial number of your radio, and the Phone Number and Zip Code that you give them when you register.
https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp?page=%2Fprod%5Fhome%2Easp
Hope this helps you with the process.
SOURCE: excessive battery drain when all is switched off
i have a 2003 ford windstar that had both battery drain and flickering dome lights and solved both. The battery drain believe it or not was the radio which is factory. This was the only fuse that i didn't pull(trying too narrow my drain) because it didn't look like a fuse.... it looks like a square block and it took a pair of needle nose pliers to get it out. Once i got it out it initially raised the amp pull, but then i waited the 30 minutes for the computor go to sleep or into hibernative mode the amp dropped off to next to nothing.... below what factory spec said it should be....next the flickering dome lights.... it turned out to be a wiring culprit in the headliner above the support post behind the passenger sliding door.... i re-wrapped it and haven't seen a flicker since. Oh and one other thing i would like to add, we thought my transmission had gone up about a year ago.... even the dealer said i needed a new tranny, but after talking to a couple of mechanics i was convinced to replace the torque converter and i was back on the road driving. The symtom was that it just stopped! We drove to the store fine and came back out to go home and it started fine but would not move. I hope all this info helps many who are struggling out there!!
SOURCE: constant battery drain-ammeter in line under
pull key out of ignition and wait 2 minutes for the can system to go to sleep(instrument cluster is off) and all doors are shut-no consumers on should be approx. 50 ma.
SOURCE: ERG valve located on a 2002 Honda Accord ex 3.0 vtec
Right beloww throttle body toward front of car
SOURCE: 1998 jetta battery drains over night. pulled neg
Unhooke your altinator it has 6 diodes in it if one is bad it will drain the battery and still charge,unhook it and recheck I bet that is your problem,Thanks and I hope this helps
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