Polaris 330 ATP has a rubber? plug on top right side of cylinder head leaking oil, how do I change it? I see nothing to use a wrench just a flat plug surface

Hi Brian what you are describing is a little confusing however if you have oil in the spark plug holes the most likely cause would be the rocker cover gasket. Now this is not the head gasket but the cover that goes on top of the cylinder head. There are normally rubber O ring seals that are part of the sealing gasket they sometimes leak oil into the plug holes. Normally this is the only entrance for oil into spark plug holes. There is or should be a rubber seal at the top of each stalk of spark plug connector from the coil pack to stop water or oil entering the plug hole. However if oil is leaking at the breather pipe connected to the rocker cover there is a very slight possibility it may be leaking oil into the cavity of the coil pack and into the plug hole. This I have never seen as due to its design it would normally find its way down the side of the engine before the cavity for the coil pack. Good luck

6ve1 engines are non interference and therefore will not bend valves and is why it uses a rubber timing belt.. leaks from top right hand side are likely the head gaskets on that side or the cam sprocket into the head seal has failed .. no biggie

Check and see if head gasket is leaking.

A vertical cover...I had to ponder that a bit. Still not sure. The valve cover sits flat on top of the cylinder head, with a gasket between them. The cylinder head is where your spark plugs are threaded in. The valve cover rests on top of the cylinder head. It's about 14-18 inches long and about 4 inches high, kind of rounded over so the valves and valve train will fit underneath. A gasket leaking motor oil is very common there, as a lot of oil is directed there and then splashed around to lubricate the valve train. The oil is supposed to drain through engine passages on down to the oil sump- the bottom of engine where oil is kept in the oil pan.

So if you have an oil leak, and it turns out it is the valve cover that is leaking, it's an easy fix-one of the easiest gasket replacements there is.

these are known for distributor caps and rotors going bad,also if this is a vortec motor they also have a problem with the injectors leaking in the intake manifold causing pooling of fuel and a rich running condition,on the side with the leaking injectors.check for any codes and take a look at the map sensor.these should be checked out.

these are know to leak oil out of the head gasket (@ back of engine )they have designed this head gasket multiple time and not sure it they have it right yet,i have done many of these on the 2.0liters

I've had this same problem. First of all, replace your radiator (or coolant recovery tank) cap. If this doesn't fix the problem, check your hoses for leaks that could be letting air into the cooling system.

If the coolant is eruption is violent upon shutting off the engine, check your oil to see if you've got a chocolate milk like look to it. If the engine is completely cold, unthread the oil drain plug just a little until fluid starts to escape. It may be coolant that comes out, or it may be oil. Finally, rent a Block Tester from Autozone (It's $25.00 refundable upon return of the tester) and some Block Test Fluid ($8.99). Run the engine until on the high side of operational temperature with the radiator (or coolant recovery tank) cap removed. Insert the rubber cone into the filler neck and place the aspirator (bulb) on top of the tester. Squeeze repeatedly (yet slowly) for two minutes. This will pull air from the coolant into the tester and eventually the fluid will either remain blue, turn green, or turn yellow. Depending on the fluid, it will turn green or yellow. If it turns either color, you have emissions/combustion gases in your coolant. Unplug one cylinder head's spark plugs and repeat the test to see if that cylinder head is the problem, replug and repeat the test with the other cylinder head. This will tell you which side of the engine is leaking the gases into your coolant.

Positive (green or yellow fluid) test means that your head gasket is blown, or you have a cracked/warped cylinder head or engine block.

The drain plug should be on the side of the oil pan, drivers side of the truck. Just be careful not to lose the washer on the plug when you take it out, otherwise you may have a leak when you put it back on. While the oil is draining into the pan take a rag and clean the plug up. Get all the dirt off, especially between the plug and the washer. Use a filter wrench and remove the filter, it should be on the same side. Put the drain pan under the filter because it will drip oil too. A quick wipe around the edge of the filter bracket will make sure no dirt falls into the new filter. Before you spin the new filter on wipe some oil on the rubber gasket on the top. If you don't it will come off very hard next time.Spin it until it stops and give it about a half turn by hand.You don't need to use the wrench to tighten it. Put your drain plug back inand tighten it the same as any other bolt. Pour your oil in,Your owner's manual will tell you how much, and check it on the dipstick. Let it sit for a few minutes an d check it again, topping it up if it needs it. If it's a little overful don't worry. Start the engine and let it idle until the oil light goes out and shut it off.the engine has tofill the filter and build up pressure. That will take a couple of minutes. go back under the truck and check for leaks. The drain plug and filter should be dry. Tighten what is leaking if necessary. Recheck your oil level and top it up. If you had a leak underneath start the truck up again and re check, otherwise you are good to go. Hope this helps.

the round oval shaped object in question should be the canister where your oil filter goes ,yes there is a gasket on the inside that may have been broke or left off on your last oil change

If I can remember,, check valve cover rubber where it seams with camshaft rubber on rear of cylinder head, the 1/2 moon rubber sits in a concave slot in head itself,usually removed, clean and reuse rubbers with a dab of silicone.