Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
I don't know the settings - they are often supplied with the gasket set these days.
Wanted to mention a couple of things...
Tightening sequence starts in the middle and works outwards - some manufacturers use a spiral pattern while others remain with diagonal opposites, though unless the head is quite wide with a large number of bolts the sequence makes little difference and I usually opt for the spiral but if the head (4 cylinder) is like that of the Perkins and many older engines with upwards of a dozen bolts the diagonal method is best.
If the head bolts are the stretch type (most modern engines are), the bolts are angular torqued by degrees rather than lb-ft. In this case some manufacturers specify further tightening immediately after the first thorough warmup and cooling cycle, cooling for 6 hours before tightening the final 30 degrees or whatever.
No further tightening is necessary or recommended.
If the original bolts aren't the stretch type a torque wrench will have been used for tightening and a later retorque is wise. The engine should be thoroughly cold and each bolt should be slackened and retightened in turn - important the bolt should be kept in motion until the torque wrench clicks.
Posted on Aug 08, 2020
Hi my name is Tom and I am here to help you.
I drove a diesel Chevy and had the same problem.
I reduced the noise by dropping my oil to a lower viscosity at the low end and keeping the high end the same. i.e. If O.E.M. recommends a 10W30 dropped to a 5W30. This will give you coverage at the high side and lower viscosity at the low end.
There are after market additives which are formulated to lubricate the tappets. Any parts store should be able to recommend which is best. Follow the instructions and do not add too much. They contain a "sticky" nature which could defeat the dropping of your lower viscosity.
I trust this answered your question. If I can be of further help, let me know.
Posted on Jul 06, 2010
SOURCE: hi have 03 ford courier
Usually if steam is coming out of the back then it's the head gasket. But, if you take the head off and find cracks then a new head or block will be required if Magnafluxing shows that it needs that.
The head gasket is cheaper than replacing the head, I'm sure you would know.
Posted on Aug 17, 2010
stage one tighten 29nm
stage two tighten 90-105 degrees
stage three tighten 90-105 degrees
job done.... hope this helps and if you need any more info/technical data dont hesitate to ask
Posted on Feb 25, 2012
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