Question about Nissan Cars & Trucks
Difficult to do with a common rail diesel without diagnostic equipment and some expertise.
The main problem is the electronics will not allow fuel injection to begin until from the start of cranking a minimum fuel rail pressure to be achieved in a certain time - so if nothing else is found; battery, starter, good cranking speed, blocked fuel filter, air leak in fuel line, etc., check electrical pulses are being sent to the injectors with noid lights. If there is a pulse the injectors should be removed for testing but if there is no pulse it would be better to call in a specialist to test the electronics and the high pressure pump.
Posted on Sep 12, 2020
The best, and in fact the only recommended solution is to use a plug-in dedicated wiring kit for this car, it plugs into a grey connector on the chassis on the rear of the left hand side. this is the connector that the cars rear light loom is plugged into and the towbar loom piggybacks onto this using the same watertight sealed connectors. There is a trailer indicator warning light already built into the dash display so no need for any other monitoring of the trailer functions. This wiring kit should cost you around £40-£50 and will only take around 10mins to fit. The other alternative is to solder the towbar wires to the cars loom, but this is time consuming and may invalidate the vehicles warranty.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
SOURCE: my nissan navara D22
Hi james, you might have air in your injection system. ussually this air pocket could be corrected by bleeding the system; or, your fuel filter is clogged. First the filter, if your fuel filter is directly attached to a hand pump, and your filter has a sendimentary bleed port at its bottom, drain this first. Then, after its drained, close the drain plug. Next is to look for the fuel return bolt on the injection pump(usually it has a "out" word etched on it) and usually uses a 17mm hexagonal head. Loosen the bolt and slowly remove it. Take care, and watch orientation of the two copper washers that are used for gasket. You might also find a filter screen attached to the bolt on some injection pumps. Anyways, if there is no filter screen, re-screw in the bolt(remember the copper washers) but do not tighten it just let it loose for a while. Now for the sweaty part, using the hand pump, pump the fuel in until the return bolt spits out fuel. You will see bubbles on the first few pumps but do not stop until it bellows out pure and clear fuel w/o bubbles. If you attained the goal, stop pumping and screw the bolt shut. Wipe-off excess fuel from the injection pump. Try starting the engine. when the engine turns over let it warm up for a while the with, again, with your no. 17mm open wrench, try loosening the injector feedline one at a time(while the engine is running).Watch out for squirting fuel, your engine might rattle a little but it will be fine, just let the fuel flow a few seconds then re-tighten the nut. Do this on all 4 injectors. Let the engine run a few minutes then shut it down. Let it completely cool down then re-start it. Also try checking glow plug(or heater plug) condition. If one glow plug is busted replace all 4 at the same time with the same brand. this would help to keep the engine attain a 1-click engine run.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
are you sure the correct amount of oil is in it? if over full the engine is trying to drag the crank shaft through the oil
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
a stuck EGR valve, dyno the vehicle and fix the EGR, (exhaust gas temp dropped from 650deg due to exhaust gasses constantly being fed back through the engine to 480). Fuel economy back is to normal.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
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