Question about Ford F-150

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1996 f150 5.8 4x4 idler controll,fuel Syestem is good Changed throttle sensor,mass .Whole distributor,wires,Plugges.Engine will run ruff with mass unplugged & soon after reconnecting the mass,go dead

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So your saying that you changed the distributor yes/no or just the cap and rotor if you pulled out the distributor did you mark the rotor position and body case before removal if not now you need to do a #1 on it pull out the distributor rotate the crankshaft to bring the #1 piston to tdc and then reinstall it,///// why did you start changing parts I need to know original symptoms why and how it was running , was there check engine codes , did you check the EGR valve vacuum lines and the valve if its closed all the way or clogged it will cause exhaust fumes to foul out the plugs and turn them black from not recirculating the unburnt fuel and then more fresh fuel is coming in messing up the air/fuel ratio, please post back with a correct list of everything you've done and include the trucks running condition before problems started and the mileage on the vehicle

Posted on Dec 03, 2019


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017



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SOURCE: my 1996 cavalier Z24 wont start

pull a wire and ground it via useing a screw driver at the end of the spark plug boot to check for spark / if their is no spark / ignition control module / there is also a crank shaft position sensor / located on the back side of the motor under the coil packs / pain to get to / also the nuetral safty switch / to check the neutral safty switch diconnect the big harnest at the neutral safty switch put a fuse tester to the yellow wire / have someone turn the key / with the tester grounded the light should come on / now we know the ignition switch has power going through it. if there is a no power at the yellow wire / bad ignition switch / does the car have a relay located at the top of the radiator core support (up by the radiator looking down drivers side)if it does not gm will install one for free / if there is / look for the purple wire coming out of the relay and Follow it down to the starter / reconnect the neutral safty swtch / touch the small S (the smallest screw) terminal on the starter soilenoid / have someone turn the key forward check the light / this will detemine if the relay is good / CAREFULL NOT to touch the big starter wire with the little one it will jump the starter / I HAVE THE SAME CAR / Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 11, 2008


  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 dodge dakota v6 engine wont start replaced

turn the key to the on position a see if you can here a buzzing sound around the fuel tank,if you don't hear a sound then. (be very careful while doing this) with the key off take a fuel line coming from the tank loose,make sure its pointed away from you and turn the key to the on position,see if any gas comes out,if not then your fuel pump is probably bad.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009


  • 223 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 Buick Century Custom 3.3L Runs Rich, Ruff at idle; 10MPG

Check the fuel filter, it might be clogged.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009


  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: my 1996 chevy silverado 1500 4x4 5.0 is running

also check your fuel flow rate u can havegood pressure but not enough flow and make sureu dnt have water in the fuel

Posted on Jun 30, 2009


Philip Long

  • 1486 Answers

SOURCE: 1987 chevy S10 engine idle problem

relace the throtle air idle valve.The temp switch will allso cause this problem.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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I have a 1997 nissen, frontier, 2400 engine. The engine surges when reaching higher rpms similar to the action of an engine hitting a rpm limiter. It idles rought and then slithtly smother when pedal not...

I would suspect the mass air flow sensor. It is located on the passenger side of the throttle body (under the air cleaner). These are very poorly made and fail often without throwing any codes. Here's a link of the part. Some emission parts for the 1997 pickup are different depending on the month of manufacture so make sure you get the correct part.

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I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy with a 4.3L V6. Replaced the intake manifold, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. When going to start it, it will start but ruff idle and stall. I checked to...

This could be air or fuel, if you are getting a mass air flow code then make sure there are no vacuum leaks around the intake also if the distributor is in wrong depending on how far off it is it could run but will run bad and will stall out, did you mark the distributor housing and also where the rotor was pointing as it is very important that the distributor rotor is point in the same spot as it was coming out if not then you will need to set the engine at top dead center and then locate the #1 cap location and install the dist rotor to be pointing to that wire,,top dead center is with #1 cylinder at the top of the compression stroke, make sure before you do that that there are no leaks try to keep it running by holding the gas pedal while someone look for a vacuum leak, you will hear a hissing sound for a vacuum leak, good day.

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I have a 1989 corvette with greenwood package that cranks for about 50 seconds before it will fire, runs at a ruff idle, and after it is hot and running for awhile it will shut off and be really hard to...

The only part that would come to mind after all of this would be the fuel pump relay. This is located on the fire wall on the drivers side of the car. When that goes bad it does not allow for adequate fuel to cycle through.The other thing would be timing. You need fuel air and spark for the vehicle to fire. After all the test and after replacing the fuel pump relay. I would do a compression and a leak down test. Are you sure that the timing did not jump a gear? You can also look and test the IAC (Idle Air Control) or the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor). Also do a test to check fuel pressure. The last Corvette that I worked on personally that had this issue it turned out to be the Fuel Pump Relay. Good luck let me know if you have any further questions.

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I got 1992 Chevrolet C1500. Have changed plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button. Have also changed fuel filter. After it warms up it starts skipping and running ruff. What can I try now?

Sounds like throttle position sensor or mass air flo sensor.Both of these can be checked by hooking up to computer.You dont want to ramdomly start changing sensors can get costly.

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Hyundai Sonata 1999. RPM suddenly goes up and down. Sometimes too low that it shut down. When I try to restart, sometimes restarts right away and sometimes I have to try 10, 15, or 20 times. Changed...

I would check your spark plug wires as well. One could be faulty. But if the RPM's are fluctuating up and down, theres a good chance that the engine isn't getting a consistent air flow. Some things to check are your intake, Mass Airflow Sensor, Throttle body, and air filter. On the intake, check the hose that goes from your air filter to the engine, make sure there aren't any holes or anything abnormal to it. As far as your Mass Airflow Sensor, some times if you go without changing your air filter for a good while, debris and dirt will pile up on the sensor causing it to send incorrect signals to the computer for the engine making it take in too much or too little air to the engine. You can solve this by getting a can of MAF sensor cleaner and following the instructions on the can. BE VERY CAREFUL if you choose to pursue this troubleshooting option because that sensor is very sensitive and can break easily causing you to have to buy a whole new sensor. Buying a new sensor should be a last option after everything else has been tried. As far as the throttle body, make sure that the wire that controls the air intake isn't broken or frayed, which would cause it to operate incorrectly. Additionally, check your Throttle Positioning Sensor, and Idle air control valve. The Throttle positioning sensor tells the computer how much air to allow into the engine when accelerating or idling, and the Idle Air control valve does a similar function by regulating how much air flows through the engine when in idle (rest). And finally your air filter. It's good to change that out pretty much every oil change to maintain a clean airflow to the engine, which is a huge factor to its performance and fuel economy. Further troubleshooting options would involve your spark plugs and spark plug wires, you may have a faulty spark distributor. Its that box that the other end of the wires are connected to, it is what sends out the current to the spark plugs. And after that if it gets this extensive, you may have a problem with your fuel lines or fuel distributor. Most likely it has to deal with air flow because I had to solve a very similar problem on my friend's Mazda Protoge. If you have a check engine light, next time you get the vehicle to start, bring your car to an auto parts store and see if they can read the codes that the computer is putting off that signals what the problem is. It should give you the exact location of the problem with your vehicle. I hope this bit of information is useful to you, and I wish you good luck.

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Runs ruff changed mass air flow plug wires plugs

check for vacuum leaks, check distributor cap and rotor button, clean or replace as necessary. Use quality injector cleaner.

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Once the fuel system is cleaned via a tankful of cleaner & gas then the idle controller motor would be next on the list to be replaced.

Good Luck !
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