I was doing a tune up on my 2000 Mustang 3.8 manual when I discovered my ignition coil module was cracked and needed replacement. After replacing it, I now can't get the engine to even turn over. I've checked my wires, spark plugs and the battery. When I turn the ignition switch, I just hear a clicking noise. Does anyone have suggestions as to what might be the problem?

Part 3 -How to Test the Ignition Module and Crank Sensor ...

easyautodiagnostics.com > Ford > 2.3L

Mar 1, 2012 - Spark plugs for cylinders #2 and #3 get spark at the exact same time. ...voltage -12 Volts) to both individual ignition coils within the coil pack. ... Ford Mustang or Ranger (or 2.3L Mazda B2300), this is what you'll need ... for this 'Switching Signal' at the coil pack... but you can also test this ... 1991, 1992, 1993.

How to Diagnose a Misfiring Cylinder (2.3L Ford Ranger ...

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Apr 3, 2012 - Bad Fuel Injectors can cause a Misfire Condition. ... the ignition system on the 2.3L Ford Mustang or Ranger consists of 2 ignition coil packs, ...

2002 ranger misfire rough idle - Discussion on Topix

www.topix.com > Ford Ranger

Jul 27, 2007 - My truck is giving the code misfire in number 4 cyl. I replaced my spark plugs, Wires, Coil packs (both of them) and all my fuil ... three (3.0L v6) go bad, the fuel/air mixture gets messed up. Judged: 2. 2 ... My truck runs rough only at idle. ...code for ford ranger 2002, 2.3 5speed. truck runs like a champ but that ...

Extremely stumped! I need the best and brightest 1994 Ford ...

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POSIBLE CAUSE O YOU NEED A NEW COIL PACK OR A IGNITION MODULE

Several things can cause this problem, cracked distributor cap, old ignition rotor. Or if you have coil packs, cracked coil pack, ignition control module, crank position sensor, cam position sensor. Coil pack parts and sensors can be checked by autozone, cap and rotor will have corrosion on the rotor, however a small crack in the distributor cap can be next to impossible to see, replacement is usually best option.

a haynes manual from a parts place will show you--or chec the condition of each plug wire-if one looks bad or falls apart--probly need to get all new wires /plugs

Use a 12 volt test light to check for voltage at the coil with the key turned to start. Connect the test light clip to engine ground and back probe the red wire terminal on the coil. If there is no power there, your problem is your ignition switch. If there is power there, back probe the same wire at the ignition module. If no power at the ignition module, the wire must be broke between the coil and the module. If there is power, the problem may be the engine control module. Let me know if you have questions.

Could be several possibilities none of which I may be able to eliminate:
1. Tune-up!  You are not getting enough spark or Fuel!  Plug-wires may be cross-firing or bad ground from body to the engine - run a new ground wire to engine from battery or body-ground.
2. Replace fuel filter or do fuel pressure test to determine if f-pump is weak or lodged with corrosion or dirt particles.
3. replace plugs and wires and clean coil-pack ignition module (where plug wires originate from) use a brake-cleaner or throttle-body cleaner but be sure fumes are evaporated and dry before starting or spark could cause explosion from fumes. Oil on module could cause spark to jump.  Do not run plug wires along each other or will jump spark, wires must be crossed once or twice for prevention of this.\
4. check all vacuum lines around engine - a cracked vacuum line can cause a lot of problems.
5. injectors may be dirty or bad - easier to replace complete intake from scrap-yard then to pay $100.00 for new injectors each!
6. Coil-pack on ignition module could be cracked and may need to be replaced.
These are only possibilities of course with the little info you provided.
Hope this helps.

have you checked fuel pressure yet. This should have been the first thing done.

sounds like the ignition module.......it comes in 2 pieces, the coil assembly and the control module......you can measure with a resistance meter across the coils which should show about 7,000 ohms as an average....it will vary from different manufacturers......if you measure nothing or infinity, then the coil is open...replace only the coil assembly......if the coil assembly is fine then suspect the control module.....other than that, other faults could be intermittant crank shaft sensor signal, intermittant or broken spark plug wires.....broken or cracked spark plugs.....fouled plugs.....plugs that have excessive gaps, incorrectly installed wires...meaning incorrect firing order.....there could be many faults but i would check the coil assembly from your ignition module first before anything else...you'll probably find at least one of the 3 coils are open or infinite resistance......good luck

Under the coil pack, there is an ignition module.
Have a look to this link.


https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.8L/ignition-coil-pack-tests-1

Hope it helps.

the problem is not the bcm. the passlock security sensor is in the cylinder and housing, if the cyl and or housing was replaced the system must be relearned. if you replace the bcm you still need to relearn the system or it still will not start.