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First be sure that one of your hoses to the cylinders aren't broken or disconnected, then follow the hoses usually they are right behind the rear seat or under it and possibly in the trunk your owners manual should say more about it if you don't have one your Ford dealer will have a service manual or you can go to your local library and copy pages from the repair manuls they have!
All three wire showing 3 it should be all 4 wires, In the back of the rear seat is the convertable top module, the yelloow black wire should go ground to bring it down.Other than that a new module will be needed,this gets its command from the window main switch so see if yellow/black wire switches over
It's located on top of the gas tank.
The only way to get to the fuel pump and it's relay is either by dropping the entire rear axle and fuel cell. The more common approach is to cut a square hole in rear deck lid (right behind the rear-seats).
The rear windows are controlled by a timer in the top's ECU. If the
rear windows stop fully closing before your top is closed, the problem
MAY be with top's hydraulic system.
Check your top's hydraulic
reserve tank for low fluid level. Lack of fluid will greatly delay
the top's closing sequence, leaving those rear windows partially
open. Your top's hydraulic pump system is located beneath the right side of
the cubby/storage box behind the front seats. Raise the cover and
you'll see a removable trim panel on the right side. The pump is
behind that access panel.
You can use power steering fluid to top
off the tank, but don't fill it above level indicator line. You
may have to add more fluid after you cycle the top up and down to
get the air bubbles out of the lines. It could also be a relay. On a 95 the relays that are in the trunk above the battery. Perhaps,
just switching the relays might prove which one is failing..
The most common reason for this is low hydraulic fluid.
The noise is probably the pump running while empty.
When fluid id present it dampens that noise.
Behind the rear seat is the combination motor/pump/reservoir.
With the top in the DOWN position, fill the reservoir with ATF and cycle the system a few times as far as it will go.
Repeat until the reservoir will take no more fluid.
If that works, it is only a patch fix.
You must now inspect the lines, motor and cylinders for leaks.
The fluid does not evaporate. If it is low, you have a leak.
Karl at topgunwon.com
You are probably low on fluid.
The pump/motor/reservoir combination is probably behind the rear seat.
Fill it with ATF with the top down. Cycle the top as much as possible, repeat till the reservoir accepts no more fluid in the down position.
Check lines and cylinders for leaks, replace/repair leaks.
You are probably low on fluid.
The pump/motor/reservoir combination is probably behind the rear seat.
Fill it with ATF with the top down. Cycle the top as much as possible, repeat till the reservoir accepts no more fluid in the down position.
Check lines and cylinders for leaks, replace/repair leaks.
First, check the fuses for the hydraulic motor; if they're blown, replace and monitor (why did they blow? Perhaps an overload, or ...) These fuses are located in the engine bay on top of the fender by the front right wheel housing.
Next check the voltage supply to the top switch, possibly a loose connection or broken wire.
Also check relays C (raising top) and D (lowering top) under the rear seat.
Lastly check for voltage at the pump, also under the rear seat, when the switch is actuated, and that the voltage polarity reverses when the switch is actuated the other way (up or down).
After that, it's a hydraulic/mechanical problem. Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir (use SAAB fluid to top up if low) Fluid level should be at the upper marker with top down, and at the lower marker with top up.
Check behind the rear seat side panels that the piston shaft is still properly attached to the roof mechanism bracket at one end, and the piston itself is still firmly attached to the body. Look for any leakage from the system.
If all tests out OK and looks good under the rear seat and behind the side panels, then there is the possibility that the piston seals have failed and the fluid is just circulating around without activating the piston. Pistons are available (http://www.convertibletopguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=584 - scroll down) but the entire system should be removed to avoid getting hydraulic fluid on the interior.
However, that fact that you can operate the hood using the bypass valve (manually) would indicate that the hydraulics are likely OK, and that it's probably an electrical or mechanical problem.
There are 2 motors in the back located behind the speaker pannels on each side of the back seat. fist make sure they are both working. second there is a switch inside your trunk on the drivers side loceted behind the trim pannel to the tail light to switch from motors to manual top removal. third if your still lost the suport bar closest to the front of the top (not the one against the window with the clips) but the silver one has 2 smal black piviting bars on each end that sometimes get stuck try manualy removing the top and pushing that bar to the back of the car. Hope this helps you
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