Have the battery tested by Autozone or others who do free testing.
SOURCE: constant battery drain-ammeter in line under
pull key out of ignition and wait 2 minutes for the can system to go to sleep(instrument cluster is off) and all doors are shut-no consumers on should be approx. 50 ma.
SOURCE: Ford E450 Chassis, 6.8L Battery Drain
good luck worked on these for years, trey replacing the battery isolaters.
SOURCE: The battery keeps going dead on 1999 Mitsubishi
There is an alternator fuse located on the positive battery clamp or in the fuse block under the hood. if it is part of the positive battery clamp it is a dealer only part and will run $10 to 20 dollars. If it is in the fuse block you should be able to get one at the auto store and modify it to slide in easily. Get a flash light and check all of your fuses carefully. The blown fuse may be hard to spot. The design of the car lets the battery go dead with out even turning on the charge light on the dash to let you know you are not charging the battery.
SOURCE: 2005 Ford Expedition, Battery drained, charging
The "Charging Sytem" includes the battery, the alternator, the voltage regulator and all related connecting wires and cables. If the charging system was tested and it tested "good" then all of these components are working properly.
If your charging system is good and you continue to have a dead battery, then you probably have an "Ignition-Off draw". This means that something is staying on after the ignition is shut off. This could be interior lamps not shutting off due to a bad door switch, or the headlamps being left on, or some other electrical component in the vehicle that is malfunctioning. If this is the case, then you need to have your vehicle checked by a competent Service Technician who, using the proper equipment and techniques, can locate and repair the source of the problem.
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