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03 Sierra Rear axle loud clunking when turning

Found problem. Removed differential cover and found 1 spider gear and half of limited slip mechanism on bottom of differential housing.

Posted by Bret Luna on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: laguna estate 03 plate

that souds like back axle bushings. regular problem on laguna 2. back axle ha to be removed and replace both sides. not very expensive

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: loud clunking noise when i turn a corner both sides rear

check the sway bar kinks for play both rear wheels will have to even ramps work good if you have them if the is any play in the links it wil rattle also check for play in the bushings that the bar goes threw tis will also give you the noise you complain of

Posted on May 28, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 198 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 gmc sierra rear differential

remove cover.take off back wheels and calipers (or drums).turn differential to where you see small bolt/pin (5/16) horizontally (same direction as axles)on right side of differential.remove bolt/pin.A large pin (about 5"long 3/4"diameter) should slide out differential with ease ( you may have to tap one side of the large pin).turn differential to completely remove large pin.turn differential so you can see in the view window.push each axles in (they'll go in about 1 1/2"each) You may hear one of the axle C-clips fall.If not use a small telescoping magnet to remove the C-clips from the axles through the differential window.pull each axle out about 10"so they are out of the diff.Now remove the cap bolts(4-5/8"bolts) and remove the caps(mark the caps so they go in excactly the way they came out.be careful the diff might fall out.If not you may have to use a long bar or 2x4 to wedge and pry the differential out. Have a basket/crate w/rags in it to catch the diff.TIP:If you are removing the ring gear from the diff, the bolts are left handed bolts meaning you have to turn them clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten ; )

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

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techbuster

INDIRA KUMAR

  • 5081 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove rear axle 03 chevy silverado

You will have to remove the rear end plate off of the back of the rear end. Then turn the carrier untill you see a big silver pin that goes through the spider gears. Those will be 4 small gears in the rear end carrier. If you look at the right side of the carrier were the pin goes through it you will see a small bolt head, That bolt goes through the carrier and holds the pin in place. Remove that bolt then reach up in the rear end housing and push the pin towards you untill it comes out. ( DO NOT TURN ANYTHING AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PIN) are the spider gears will fall out.


Now get someone to push the axel in while you are looking at the 4 small gears in the housing, when they push the axel in a C-clip will fall off the end of the axel and into the rear end, You will see it fall out. Then just pull the axel out.



When you put the axel back in, push it all the way in then slide the c-clip over the end of the axel and then pull out on axel and that will hold the clip in place untill you put the big long pin back in the carrier. I hope you understand, just watch what you are doing. GOOD LUCK.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

Anonymous

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: LOUD CLUNKING NOISE IN REAR WHEEL AREA WHEN TURNING LEFT

sounds like either a sway bar end link or shock, more towards the end link tho

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

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i would remove rear cover plate to axle ( pig ) and check for ring and pinion gear or spider gears for broken teeth. Or are you sure it's not a posi gone bad ? i would think that you have a problem with the pinion gear and or ring gear.

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Jul 03, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

I have a 2002 gmc sierra. when i put it in gear,


418238
If you have that much play back there, first check rear universal . If play is present in pinion with shaft removed, you will not be happy with what you find inside the cover.1/2 turn of lash in any gearset is far beyond the scope of any adjustment. Rebuilding is an exact science and must be done with special tools and lots of experience.
With any luck the u joint is bad...

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The rear problem with a 1999 gmc sierra truck


do you know if you have a limited slip rear diff?
if you do your grease is worn out or if the fluid was replaced it need to have a friction modifier put in the diff (can be found at any auto part stores.)

if its not a limited slip diff you might have spider gears going bad. then you need to remove the cover on the diff and inspect your spider gears2f73bce.jpg b440737.jpgand these are the spider gears
b87d88d.jpgand this is what a limited slip looks like
good luck
and dont forget to rate my answer
thanks
paul

Nov 15, 2008 | 1999 GMC Sierra

4 Answers

CLUNK IN REAR


There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

Aug 18, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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