Question about Acura Cars & Trucks
I sounds like either a dead battery, maybe dirty battery terminal(s) or possible a worn or defective starter motor. If you have AAA or a friend with jumper cables, try jump starting it. USUALLY, if it clicks and dials start jumping around, The battery is either low on charge, damaged internally, has dirty terminal(s) or the car has a bad starter. When you turn the key, the battery may try to supply 9, 10 or 11 volts initially. This is when your gauges start to go up. As soon as a huge power load like your starter tries to kick in, it draws all of the power away from your gauges and they drop. The battery, for whatever reason, doesn't have the power to run the starter motor, the voltage drops, the starter relay drops out disconnecting the starter. The battery voltage tries to recover and your gauges go back up momentarily until the voltage rises enough to start the cycle all over again. Then your gauges drop and on and on. I have seen this with cars where the battery was run down due to headlights being left on, the battery has died of old age, the starter has an internal short or seized bearing or a defective cell connector has broken internally or something as simple as a dirty or corroded battery terminal clamp or cable where it leads into the clamp..The bottom line is that the starter requires an enormous amount of power from the battery for the few seconds that it takes to start the engine. If the battery isn't up to the task for whatever reason, the starter will demand ALL of it's power. A fully charged 12 volt battery's voltage shouldn't drop below 10 volts during cranking. As the battery ages, the terminals get dirty or if the alternator doesn't charge properly, the voltage begins to drop below 10 volts. If you notice the engine cranks slower and get it repaired soon, no harm done. If you drag every last start out of that dying horse, you can damage the coils inside the starter. A horse will run itself to ***** to please it's master. Electric motors are the same way. If all is well, a starter may draw 150 to 200 amps from the battery depending on several different factors like engine size, cylinder compression and number of accessories belted to it. As the battery ages, it's cranking voltage begins to wain. As the cranking voltage drops below 10 volts, that starter will still try to accomplish the same amount of work to start the engine. You don't get something for nothing. So if you have a high compression V8 with a supercharger, air conditioner, alternator and water pump belted to it, normally it may draw 200 amps to start. At 9 volts, it may draw 250 amps to do the job. At 8 1/2 volts, it may go to 275 amps. These windings in the motor in this example were only designed to draw 200 amps. At 275 amps, it's drawing about 40% more power than they're rated at. If you fix this condition in a day or 2, that small abuse can be overlooked. In a busy delivery vehicle driven until it won't start anymore, it is devastating.
I mentioned the starter being bad as a possibility. If it is the original and well used or if it contains a defective bearing or windings, every time you try to start it, even with a new battery, if the motor doesn't turn, it will act like a wrench dropped across the battery terminals and draw the initial battery voltage way down. When you energize any motor, it converts the energy that you put into it into rotational motion and it runs cool. If you lock that motor so it won't turn like with seized bearings or if the windings inside are shorted, all of that energy has to go somewhere. If the motor is locked, the windings will heat excessively drawing way more power than normal. If the windings are shorted, it will draw even more power due to the fact that it won't have any resistance contained in the windings to dissipate all that energy, again, dragging the battery down. I hope your problem is something as simple as dirty terminals. This would only cost a couple of bucks at most or nothing at all if they can be cleaned. Good luck.
Posted on Jan 03, 2019
easy jump start the car to see if its the battery or the altinator. then take off the RED cable to the battery only. if it keeps running its your battery. if it shuts off its the altinator.OR when you jump start the car and you take the cable off and the car shuts down its the altinator. it take 12 volts to lite a bulb it takes 1200 amp to start a car BIG diffence well i hope this helps
Posted on May 09, 2009
This happened to me on a 95 Integra GSR and the entire starter did not need to be replaced, just the solenoid pieces. They get old and worn down and the plunger no longer makes a good connection with them, hence the "click". Replace the solenoid panels and sand the plunger and your good as new. You can find instructions for this on the net, just do a search for it.
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
SOURCE: 2007 chevy cobalt ls won't
Ignition relay or fuse could be the problem. When you turn the key to start do you hear a fuel pump kicking on and or do you have spark when you hot wire the starter (I know it's hard to check while trying to start it)? You can email me back and I might be able to pinpoint it more.
Posted on Jun 06, 2011
The click noise is the sound of the starter SOLENOID clicking but not contacting to supply voltage to the starter motor.
Now a multimeter test will confirm if the solenoid is contacting and if so then the starter motor is faulty.
It can be due failure of the BRUSH in the motor or the commutator. If so remove the motor and confirm.
Also if the starter pinion is struck the solenoid will click and the motor may not turn.
Posted on Jul 25, 2011
the clicking that you hear is coming from the starter relay. sounds like your ignition starter switch or ignition lock cylinder is bad.
Posted on May 30, 2012
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