It will not increase RPM's under a load. I've checked linkage, replaced circuit board, brushes and serviced it. I did not test the Idle Control Solenoid as it does not fall under the desired RPM's at idle. I tried to increase the idle, however, it will increase the voltage output too much - too much so that it took the inverter out in my camper. Why will it not increase rpm's under a load. Thanks.
I am not familiar with your generator but mostly there is no idle speed on a generator. When started the engine would usually run at a preset speed from the first - this is so the Hz or c/s per second of the output is correct.
When an electrical load is applied to the output there would be a tendency for the engine speed to slow and it is the job of the governor, whether mechanical or electronic, to return the engine speed to the preset value as quickly and smoothly as possible.
A mechanically governed engine does give an (incorrect) impression it speeds up when a load is applied but in reality it is only returning to the preset speed.
The engine speed of a generator should not be tampered with unless an accurate Hz meter is available - the only method of checking/adjusting the engine speed of a generator.
Now that I can use the proper terminology - While the unit is running, I have my volt meter connected at the 120v outlet. I have a Skill Saw and a Metal Sheer plugged in. If I energize both of those, the Generator will not return to the desired speed. The output drops to roughly ~109v and will not increase. The Governor is mechanical and appears to be in working order. If I manually increase RPM's and release the governor, it returns to idle RPM's.
It is important the applied load doesn't exceed the output of the generator. If the Skilsaw has a motor needing 1800 watts, for instance, it would be expecting a lot of a generator with a peak 900 watt output to behave itself.
Given the output rating exceeds the load it would seem from your description there is a problem with the governor. After you have discovered the problem and rectified it, the final speed check/adjustment should be made using a Hz meter. For 120 volt USA standard the output should be at 60 Hz and a voltage check has limited use. As long as the voltage is somewhere around the expected it is unwise to get too hung up with it.
Off load the voltage would be expected to be slightly high but that would usually stabilise as soon as a small load is applied. Obviously this depends on the type and quality of the alternator regulation. Clearly if the voltage is radically high or low when the engine is running at a speed that produces 60 Hz alternating current output, it indicates a generator or regulator fault.
I just went back out with my meter and checked Hz. At idle, it's roughly ~59-60.5. I was able to position myself to watch the Governor operation and my meter while I energized both tools. While the Hz dropped to roughly ~55-57hz, the governor did not move I then manually operated the governor and my hz came back to the desired 60 and voltage returned. My problem is pointing at the governor set up. I don't see any mechanical issues externally, however, I need to remove some shields so I can visually see everything operate. I will return with my findings as soon as I can.
I need too add that the unit does indeed have a solenoid that is attached to a lever that aligns with the throttle linkage. I suspect this controls how the governor reacts to a load on the unit.
Sorry not sure what the solenoid might be or what the function is. It might be a device to close the throttle in case of an overload. If it was an electric/electronic speed control it would rather make the mechanical governor superfluous and manufacturers rarely make stuff more expensive than necessary.
There are two basic types of mechanical governor - one type uses a centrifugal system of bob weights that move against springs as the speed increases. This type is usually enclosed within the crankcase and movement transmitted to the throttle through a shaft and external lever and a connecting rod and at least one spring.
The other type uses a moveable flap positioned within the air/cooling cowl next to the fan/flywheel. The flap moves against the throttle spring(s) as the engine speed increases due to the greater flow of cooling air.
The latter type is by far the most commonly used type but is vulnerable to damage, sticking and wear. I have found new engines with faulty governors of that type.
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SOURCE: Triton V10 Engine Shudders under load
have your fuel system vacuumed out our excursion did it as well the injectors are not at fault it is the fuel lines
SOURCE: base idle speed adjustment....1KZ-TE 3.0 litre turbo.
Hi djay,
the idle speed control can be adjusted on the pump by turning the adjusting screw that stops the accelerator lever.
Cheers
SOURCE: 2004 subaru forester, 99,000 miles. Check engine
Drop in to an Autozone, or Pep Boys, or similar big parts store & they will usually scan for codes free. This will hopefully eliminate all the guess work, or at least point everyone in right direction for better diagnosis. If not obvious from codes what the problem is, get back to us and we'll help you out.
Testimonial: "Thanks for the great suggestion . I'll have Autozone read the codes on Monday. Thanks again!"
SOURCE: has low power, surges @ cruizing speed, rough idle (code 32)
You can remove the egr and see if it has been sealing,and if it still moves.
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html
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Nissan Pathfinder Backfires?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-backfires.html
---------How to adjust rpm?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-adjust-rpm-on-2009-dodge-charger.html
------------Engine cuts out at 3000
RPM?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/engine-cuts-out-at-3000-rpm.html
----------This will help.Thanks.
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