My 2004 jetta 1.8t wont start. not getting spark and throwing several low voltage to ground codes(11 of them) also open drivers side door kills engine every time.

Your fault is either the low voltage side of the coils or the output or spark plug side. Look for a broken wire.

PCM control module ground may be compromised . Check battery cables and especially the engine block ground .

Did you change the wires? Sounds like maybe they're worn or one is torn open and grounded and putting too much resistance to let the coil energize the spark plugs.

There is voltage on all three wires because there is no ground, check with engine cranking. The two wires that go to computer are grounds for coils. You could probably use a noid lite to check for pulse, engine cranking. That should be safe, between primary voltage and one of the grounds. There several ways to visually check for a pulse. If your digital multimeter has a min/max setting, that should work. You could use an l.e.d. but you would have to use resistor.
You changed computer, was it new?

Trouble Code: P0340

No Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Failure
Possible Causes:


CMP Sensor connector is damaged, open or it is shorted CMP Sensor signal circuit is open or shorted to ground or to battery voltage or 5v supply circuit CMP Sensor 5v supply circuit is open or shorted to ground or to battery voltage CMP Sensor ground circuit is open CMP Sensor is damaged or has failed CKP Sensor is damaged or has failed PCM has failed

The diagnostic procedure for EI (electronic ignition) systems varies depending on the vehicle make and model year. Always follow the procedure recommended in the vehicle manufacturer's service manual.
The following procedure is based on Chrysler EI systems. The crankshaft timing sensor and camshaft reference sensor in these systems are modified Hall-effect switches.
If a crank or cam sensor fails, the engine will not start. both of these sensor circuits can be checked with a voltmeter or lab scope.
If the sensors are receiving the correct amount of voltage and have good low-resistance ground circuits, their output should be a pulsing digital signal or voltmeter reading while the engine is cranking.
If any of these conditions do not exist, the circuit needs to be repaired or the sensor needs to be replaced. When the engine fails to start, follow these steps:

1. Check for fault codes 11 and 43.
   • Code 11, "Ignition Reference Signal," could be caused by a defective camshaft reference signal or crankshaft timing sensor signal.
   • Code 43 is caused by low primary current in coil number 1, 2 or 3.
2. With the engine cranking, check the voltage from the orange wire to ground on the crankshaft timing sensor and the camshaft reference sensor. Crankshaft timing and camshaft reference sensor terminals.
   • Over 7V is satisfactory.
   • If the voltage is less than specified, repeat the test with the voltmeter connected from PCM (powertrain control module) terminal 7 to ground.
   • If the voltage is satisfactory at terminal 7 but low at the sensor orange wire, repair the open circuit or high resistance in the orange wire.
   • If the voltage is low at terminal 7, the PCM may need replacement.
     • Be sure 12V are supplied to the PCM terminal 3 with the ignition switch off or on, and 12 V must be supplied to PCM terminal 9 with the ignition switch on.
     • Check PCM ground connections on terminals 11 and 12 before PCM replacement.
3. With the ignition switch on, check the voltage drop across the ground circuit (black/light blue wire) on the crankshaft timing sensor and the camshaft reference sensor.
   • A reading below 0.2V is satisfactory.

NOTE When using a digital voltmeter to check a crankshaft or camshaft sensor signal, crank the engine a very small amount at a time and observe the voltmeter. The voltmeter reading should cycle from almost 0 volts to a highter voltage of about 5 volts. Since digital voltmeters do not react instantly, it is difficult to see the change in voltmeter reading if the engine is cranked continually.

1. If the readings in the previous two steps are satisfactory, connect a lab scope or digital voltmeter from the gray/black wire on the crankshaft timing sensor and the tan/yellow wire on the camshaft reference sensor to ground. Lab scope patterns from the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors.
   • When the engine is cranking, a digital pattern should be displayed or the voltmeter should cycle between 0 and 5 volts.
   • If the voltage does not cycle, sensor replacement is required.
   • Each sensor voltage signal should cycle from low voltage to high voltage as the engine is cranked.

A no-start condition can occur if the PCM "locks up."

• In step 2 above, if 0 volts is indicated the PCM may be faulty or it may be locked up.
• If the PCM is locked up it will not store a fault code for the reason.
• Basically, the PCM will lock up when it goes into a safeguard routine if the 9-volt or 5-volt reference voltage shorts to ground. This shuts down the PCM to protect it. Since it shuts down, no DTCs (Diagnostic trouble code) are stored.
• The engine will not start as long as the ground is present. An intermittent ground will cause the engine to stop running.
• Attempting to restart the engine without cycling the ignition switch to the full LOCK position will not start the engine, even if the ground is lifted.
  • Cycle the ignition switch to the LOCK position and wait about 5 to 10 seconds.
  • If the ground is lifted, the PCM will reset and the engine will start and run until the ground occurs again.
• On 1996 and new SBEC III and JTEC engine controllers, there are two 5-volt reference signals. The sensors that require 5 volts are separated, thus If this signal shorts to ground the engine will still stop running, but for the first time a DTC can be set.
• Also note, if the 9-volt reference voltage is opened, there will be no DTC stored for the crankshaft or camshaft positions sensors. With an open circuit the PCM cannot tell if the engine is cranking or not. The diagnostic routing does not begin until the PCM senses engine cranking.

For a car to start you need compression spark and fuel. If you put a rag over the schrader valve (looks like a bike tire air valve) on the metal fuel rail and push the center down with a screw driver gas should shoot out if it doesn't you have a fuel problem.They make a spark tester that goes in line between the plug and wire see if you have spark when it cranks. Look up on line for a picture of the crank sensor at auto parts web site and look for sensor front of engine just above oil pan

Power for the headlights on the Left side (High and low beam.) comes from the same fuse... The ORANGE wire and the ORANGE/BLACK are the same, they connect in the harness. If you only lack the 12v to make the light work connect them at the headlight assembly.

If your low beam also lacks ground the Left low beam ground is shared with the right low beam ground... Run a wire from left low beam DARK BLUE to right low beam DARK BLUE/WHITE.

If its not working now then your cursed, seek a witch doctor.

There are several ways.
One - pull a plug - ground base to engine with a good clip lead or wire.  Crank engine and look for spark.  This works best at dusk or in low light condition.
Second - Look in JC Whitney - they have a device that plugs into the spark plug on one side and the wire on the other.  In between there is a clear tube where you can see the spark in working.
Third - pull plug - use a screw driver in the end of the wire and hold close to a grounded point such as a engine bolt.  You should be able to pull a spark when you get close enough without actually touching.
If you can't find a spark at all look at the ingnition control module.  They have a tendancy to go bad over time.

Hope that helps,

Doug

one is located over the battery, the other is located in the side of the dash.

First panel:
If you pop your hood the battery will be on your right sid in the front of the engine bay. There is a small rectangular piece on top of the battery with a lot of heavy guage red wires going to it. That is the engine bay fuse box.

Second panel:
if you open your driver side car door it's under neath a panel located inbetween the door and the dash board.

Have you checked all of your vacuum hoses for leaks? Any vacuum leak, even intake manifold or throttle body gasket, will cause an engine stall right after starting. Likewise with a fuel pressure problem. If you aren't getting voltage, maybe whatever switch starts your glow plug cycle(either turning ignition on or opening driver door, depending on model) is defective, or any of the wiring of the circuit. It's a cheaper guess.