I have to swipe a key chain under my dash to get it to turn over in my 1997 ford ranger. What is this feature called and how do i bypass it

SOURCE: spark plug gap spec. for 1997 ford ranger/4.0 liter

for the most part it is under the hood of your car where the sticker say engine size try this website to see if they have you car listed its www.autozone.com if not call your local part store and tell them its a 4.0 liter and you need the gap on the spark plugs

SOURCE: 2001 Ford Ranger V6 timing chain

Hello;
The Ford motors are pretty good. I had 280K on a 2.9 V-8 that only needed the oil changed every 3K. Unless you have fluctuatuation in the timing then you should be ok.
These engines use a chain rather than a belt and have excellent life.
Thanks;
Rich RPM Northwest

SOURCE: I have Ford Ranger Supercab 2001. The 4wd does not

When you turn the dial to 4 wheel drive it controls a solonoid unit that then controls the electric motor that shifts the trasfer case to 4X4. The clicking sound that you are hearing is probobly the solonoid unit (4x4 control unit) engaging or trying to engage the trasfer case motor. From what I,ve heard the solonoid unit is located behind the plastic panel that is under the glove box and before the passenger side door. Moisture can build up in that area and ruin the solinoid unit over time. Check any fuses that have any thing to do with the 4x4. If the solonoid unit or fuses is not the problem, I would check the wireing to the electric transfer case motor and the motor itself. Good luck and God bless!

Testimonial: "Thanks for the info.. It actually turned out to be a rotten connector in the wiring harness just before the transfer case. I cut it out and re wired.."

SOURCE: Lost keys to ford ranger and need to bypass the

Hi,

I am not allowed to provide instructions to bypass an antitheft system, I am sorry.

But I can tell you that it ist not simple to be done,I think it´s even impossible to override the system of your car. The reason is that the immobilizer is included in the engine control module, so there is no way to bypass the system.

The easiest -and cheapest- way is to order a new key or tow the car to the next Ford Branch to program the existing key.

SOURCE: My 1997 ford ranger a/c dash vents won't blow

Vacuum supply starts on the drivers side of the engine. There is a vacuum line going into the brake vacuum assist from the manifold. branching off of that line is a double line that snakes under the intake manifold, behind the valve cover, along side the valve cover on the passenger side headed to the front of the engine. Then it curves to the right side of the engine. One set of hoses from this line goes to a valve control (red and green i think). The other line goes to the vacuum storage ball, it should be black. The vacuum circuit continues out of the ball in another black line that snakes into the firewall. It goes under the heater core black box and disappears under it. Now go into the passenger compartment and drop the glovebox. look to the back right you will see a black and a white vacuum line coming out of the firewall. The black line is your vacuum supply from the engine. It goes up to a little rubber manifold. disconnect the lines coming from the dash switch and check for vacuum on the manifold where the black line is going in. The white line controls the cabin air intake under the glovebox and the thermostat shutoff under the hood. It should only have vacuum when the switch is in a certian position, AC probly. The other three lines coming off the rubber manifold snake behind the dash vent door assemble and come out near the gas peddle. The red one controls the dash vent. apply vacuum to the red hose and see if the vents go to the center dash position/AC. The yellow and blue? ones control the floor vent control near the gas peddle. yellow gives you half floor and half defrost. blue gives you all floor. you can use a small vacuum line to connect the black vacuum supply to each individual line on the manifold and check the function of each vacuum control assembly individually. I hope this helps. On my truck each control unit works fine when i apply vacuum to them individually but when I hook the dash switch up to the rubber manifold it goes to defrost. I tried changing the dash switch and the lines running from the switch to the rubber manifold and the vacuum ball under the hood, nothing works. I suspect I may have leak i just haven't found yet. next step is to get a vacuum gage and start checking the amount of vacuum i am getting at each vacuum line. I'm sure it is supposed to be getting a specific amount of vacuum and will not work if the vacuum drops below a certian level due to a leak in a line somewhere? God bless.