How do I remove the old Ball joint from the passenger side of my 2007 Honda CR-V. all bolts are off and I cannot get it to come out.

On a car this old, I would replace the whole lower arm, because the inner bushing is probably worn out, too. Much easier to do, so the cost of the part might be offset by the savings in labor. Just a few nuts and bolts and getting the ball joint to release from the knuckle with a few hammer hits.

You most likely broke a tie rod. You should see two points where your ball joints fit in. Probably still attached. You will need a ball joint removal kit, new tie rods, sweat and tears to get the old ones off but very doable.

It could be one of two things one it could be a wheel bearing or two it could be a linkage ball joint

U have to jack the car up on passenger side. Remove the wheel after placing jack stand under car. Remove the axle nut, tie rod end and the remove the bolt that holds the lower ball joint in place. Then take a pry bar to seperate the ball joint from the spindle. You have to tap the axle out of the hub. Than on the axle shaft near the trans. is some bolts that have to be removed with a specil socket that you may be able to get from auto parts store. Remove the bolts and remove the axle. Reverse the procedure to install.

if its the bolt that attaches to the spindle thats the lower ball joint u will need to jack up and support vehicle remove the wheel you will need to support control arm with a jack and decompress spring and chain or secure for safety reasons so it doesnt shoot out and cause injury cut or drill out the 4 rivets that hold the ball joint in place [if it is a pressed one will need to buy or a lot of auto stores will let you borrow a ball joint press]replace with new done ---if the bolt is the one attached to the frame need to do same set up and remove old and replace but the bushings are what will slow u down a bit while replacing

OK< ball joints, they are sometimes bolted on, I hope yours is, you have to get in there to see, But you will also need the parts first, when you buy the ball joint, you will know what you got, either welded to the arm or bolted, then you can take off the arm or the ball joint. Either way, it should be no problem getting the thing off, get the car up, wheel off, don't get your legs under there, get dirty, and you might need another bottle jack to lift up the arm to get the bolts on. Check it out. Hope this helps.

Sounds like a control arm or possibly the rear swaybar is loose. Pull the tire and check things out - you should basically have no play in any of the ball joints or linkages. If you do and it's on a ball joint, the joint should be replaced. If the swaybar is the culprit, you can replace the end link (from the bar to the wheel hub) independently - you don't have to buy a full sway bar setup.

I had a question i bought a used control arm for a 2001 honda civic compared it to the original and everything was the same except the part where the ball joint goes into is a few mm thicker on the control arm. Beedless to say i got it in but i had to over tighten to get the nut in all the way. I thought this would stop the rattling sound when i hit a pothole bit its still doing it and i fear the control arm is the incorrect one what other honda has the same control arm as the civic?

1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheel. 4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolts. 5. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts, and hang the caliper to one side. CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 6. On ABS equipped vehicles, remove the wheel sensor wire bracket, then remove the wheel sensor from the knuckle but do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. NOTE: Use ball joint removers to separate the ball joints from the suspension or tie-rod end. 7. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. 8. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads. 9. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded end of the ball joint. 10. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the pressure bolt. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 11. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then hand tighten the pressure bolt, and recheck the jaws to make sure they are still parallel as pictured above. 12. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering arm. WARNING: WEAR EYE PROTECTION. THE BALL JOINT CAN BREAK LOOSE SUDDENLY AND SCATTER DIRT OR OTHER DEBRIS IN YOUR EYES. 13. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of the steering/suspension arm. Inspect the ball joint boot and replace if damaged. 14. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 15. Install a 12mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 16. Use the ball joint remover, 32mm, as shown to separate the lower ball joint and lower arm. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 17. Remove the knuckle protector. 18. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 19. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 20. Use the ball joint remover as shown to separate the upper ball joint and knuckle. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 21. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle by tapping the driveshaft end using a plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle. 22. Remove the knuckle from the hub unit. 23. Remove the four flange bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake disc.

This is a pretty easy job.The way i do it is take the two 14mm bolts louse from the strut on the inner fender well,then take the 17mm bolt out of the bottom of the strut on the lower control arm this will make it drop down.Then take the 14mm bolt louse that fastens the ball joint to the spindle take a hammer and hit the upper spindle and it all will come apart.Now you will have the two bolts that holds the upper control arm in place these are 17mm bolts drop the strut down and remove the upper control arm now you can go in with the new one.Hope this helps !!!