How important is the self adjusting mechanism on rear drum brakes for 2005 dodge stratus

SEEMS You do not know of after market brake suppliers.???
like Raybestos and dorman etc? lots there are.
not just DODGE dropping the ball..
or buy all that used from car-part.com

many car makers now love to end parts at 10 years old
so vast aftermarket parts exist. (ebay my have used parts)
v6 engine? (heavy car needs 15" drums? 14/15 both used.

see the names here? the hard ware kits?
many autostores even walk in , have them or can get them.
why not look there first.
even go to NAPA, ask talk to live persons.

bingo 1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=dodge+Stratus+%2C+drum+adjuster&_sacat=0


oops first hit bingo2. list item has it. there.DYNAMIC FRICTION

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1996,stratus,2.5l+v6,1099032,brake+&+wheel+hub,drum+brake+hardware+kit,1752

Unless you have replaced the cable, it should never need to be adjusted. If you can reach under the vehicle, and when wiggling the parking brake cable, if it is taut (not sagging), then it is probably adjusted properly. What usually causes the parking brake cable to appear mis-adjusted (the parking brake won't hold the vehicle), is that the self-adjusters in the rear drum brakes are not working properly. This is bad because it means that you are not getting proper braking from the rear brakes as well as having the parking brake issue. This can cause premature wear to the front disc brake pads/rotors and affect braking power and control under certain stopping conditions. Front disc brakes work so well that many people never realize that their rear brakes aren't doing their fair share. The purpose of the self-adjusters in the drum brakes is to keep the rear brake shoes at a consistent distance from the drum's inner surface as the shoe lining wears down. If the adjuster works correctly, the parking brake will always stay in adjustment. You CAN adjust the parking brake cable, but if the problem is actually with the self-adjuster, you are masking the real problem, and later on when you need to replace the rear brake shoes, you will find it impossible to put the drum back on over the shoes as the parking brake will have the shoes pushed out too far. Have a mechanic check out the self-adjuster mechanism. It is always a good idea whenever you replace the rear brake shoes to replace all the rear brake hardware as well. You don't replace rear brakes nearly as often as the front ones, and the cost of the hardware is minimal in relation to the satisfaction of knowing that non-corroded parts will work better and provide longer service than the older, gummed-up and rusted hardware that is currently installed.

Your talking about the rear (drums) brakes.
They have auto adjusters they adjust when your braking in reverse.
Try to apply your brakes in reverse a few times if not then.......
There is an oval plug on the back side of the drum at the top toward the back of the car.
Pop it out (with the back of the car in the air) use a flat headed screwdriver to turn the adjuster while turning wheel.

re move drum and shoes replace drum and rotate drum slowly to see where the drum catches then remove drum and tap back plate with hammer then try again untill its not catching ie both sides

Two things are common: One must typically remove an Oval shaped Rubber cover located near the bottom of the Brake Backing Plate to access the Star Adjuster Wheel. The Self Adjuster must be pushed outward with a long thin screwdriver then the Star Wheel must be rotated with a Brake Adjuster Tool in an Upward Direction. Remember to rotate it in an upward direction you must Lower the tool and engage the Star Wheel then Raise the Adjuster Tool while engaged with the Star Wheel.

The second thing is breaking the Rust around the Center hole in the Brake Drum. Usually some good penetrating oil allowed to soak for about an hour will loosen it. Some times it will be necessary to apply a lot of heat typically with a Propane Torch and then smack the drum with a hammer between the studs a few times. You will most likely have to replace the drums dependent upon how many miles your vehicle has on it. I presume it has over 100,000 miles in it.

When you do a brake job with drums. You have to adjust the brakes by hand the first time. It doesn't hurt to put a little lude on the slack adjusters. Also if your reusing the brake drums, you need to grind or file the lip off the edge of the drum. this will throw off the adjustment.

Try backing up and pulling the emergency brake until the car stops, to adjust the brakes.This works on some cars....not for sure on yours.
GL,
Td

You have air in the brake system and you will have to bleed the brakes.This will take time but if you keep your eye on the fluid level and then open the bleeder screw on one caliper at a time and let about 1 to 2 cups of fluid come out of each side you should get the air out of the system to regain your brakes.

If they are drum brakes, make sure you turn the self adjustment screw all the way closed. If they are disc brakes you need to use a brake tool to screw the calliper piston in. Just loosen the bleeder valve and screw the piston in counter clockwise.

It should be self adjusting (when u back up and apply the brakes, it adjusts ), and can also be manually adjusted (thru removal of the rubber plug on the backing plate). The adjuster (star wheel) can seize due to rusting and it won't adjust automatically or manually. Whenever u do a brake job, spray it w/ wd-40 and turn it back and forth several times to make sure it is free, then I put a dab of high temp. brake grease on the threads (only a small amount, as u don't want it dropping off and getting on the brake shoes).