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it will just shut off the engine because the ECM will have no idea of the position of the cam in relation to the piston
The ECM needs to know the exact position of the crank and cam shafts to determine the ignition timing so if one or both go out then the engine stops
If course if the timing belt breaks the same result happens as the cam shaft sensor stops sending a signal to the ECM so the ECM shuts the engine down
if its a twin cam 2.0L, turn crank over until these marks align up with centre crank bolt (to remove pulley remove smaller outer bolts) then remove belt tensioner to remove belt should use cam lock tool to hold cams in position. turn tensioner with allen key anti-clockwise to get pointer in "V" section then do up 13mm retaining bolt. turn over by hand a couple of times and recheck tensioner position as well as timming marks all align up again before reassembling and starting engine.
That motor has a timing chain, not a timing belt. Replacing it requires removing the water pump, dropping the oil pan, removing the balancer and timing cover. Rotate the crank so the dots on the cam gear and crank gear line up at the 6 and 12 o clock positions respectively. Unbolt the cam gear and remove it and the chain. If you need to remove the crank gear you can use a three jaw puller or something similar to pull it off. Reinstall the crank gear lining up the gear with the keyway on the crank and press it on with the appropriate tool. Install the cam gear with the chain and make sure dots line up again. It may be necessary to remove the valve covers and rocker arms as well to rotate the cam shaft if need be.
turn engine to TDC No1 cylinder at this point the cam cog has a hole drilling which should be at 12 o/clock position and alignes with a V notch on the cyl head as you look thro the cam drill/hole and when crank pully is at TDC the cog has a marked tooth which should align with mark on engine approx 12-30 pm position these marks are all clear to see and belt change takes around TWO AND HALF HOURS to do
There is One mark on the crankshaft pulley that needs to point almost straight down (line up mark on pulley with notch on the bottom of rear timing belt plastic cover piece). Both cam sprockets will have a notch stamped into them. these need to be pointing exactly at each other. I believe the rear cam is the intake on these engines and the front is the exhaust. When the notch is at the 3 oclock position on the intake cam, the exhaust cam needs to be at the 9 oclock position (the marks will almost touch each other). Make sure you rotate the engine over using a breaker bas on the crank pulley bolt and double (even triple check) the marks and make sure they stay lined up! This is an interference engine and if you're not lined up, get ready to put a new cylinder head on it. Also be sure to rotate the water pump pulley and line up its marks to keep the belt tensioned.
Its because your pistons on 1&4 are up top that is why your bent valves got bent you are doing exactly the same thing so turn the crank back 15degrees position your cam and reset your crank,it seems to me you may be out of your depth lets hope not or it may be expensive
The 1.8T is very common in the US. We don't have any diesels here in the A4, but the 1.8T is all over the place.
What exactly do you need to know? You were posting it in the title to your question but it got cut off and I don't know exactly what you're looking for in terms of info for changing the cam chain. If you mean the timing belt, that's a belt, not a chain. I thought that the 1.8T drove both cams off of the belt, unlike the 2.8, where only the exhaust cams are belt-driven by the timing belt, and the intake cams drive off their respective exhaust cams via a chain and tensioner assembly. If you can clarify this, we can proceed.