Were can i buy new new clutch line retaining clip?

Step 1: Remove the magnetic drain plug with a wrench. (The drain plug is underneath the outer primary chain case on the left side of the motorcycle). Drain the fluid into a drain pan.
Step 2: Remove all of the screws on the clutch release cover with an Allen wrench. & also remove the clutch release cover. Discard the gasket that's located right on the inside of the clutch release cover.
Step 3: Loosen the clutch cable adjuster with a wrench to allow it to slack a bit in the clutch cable.
Step 4: Remove the retaining clip of the pushrod assembly with a pick tool. This should also release the two thrust washers located just behind the retaining clip.
Step 5: Remove the throw out bearing & Insert a new one into the same slot.
Step 6: Reinstall the two thrust washers and the retaining clip you previously removed.
Step 7: Tighten the clutch cable adjuster with a wrench.
Step 8: Replace the clutch release cover gasket and reinstall the cover by inserting and tightening the screws that you previously removed.

Things You'll Need

• Drop pan
• Socket set
• Fuel line disconnect tool
• New filter

• 1Slide the drip pan under the driver side of the truck, below the driver door. Climb under with the socket set, fuel line disconnect tool and new filter.
  
• 2Unbolt the fuel filter retaining strap with the socket set. The filter is located along the inboard side of the frame, below the driver seat. When in doubt, simply follow the fuel lines forward from the fuel tank until you locate the filter.
  
• 3Disconnect the front fuel line from the fuel filter with the fuel line disconnect tool. The line flares out where the filter outlet enters it and a retaining clip holds it in place. You can unseat this clip with a pocket screwdriver or a pick, but it's not advisable, as the clip tends to break if pried on unevenly. hence why u need the tool. about ten buck
  
• 4Pull the fuel line off the front of the fuel filter and then pull the filter out of the rear line and retaining strap. Put the old filter in the drip pan.
  
• 5Slide the new filter into the retaining strap and plug the inlet into the rear fuel line. Make sure the arrow indicating flow direction points toward the engine. Connect the front fuel line, push the retaining clip back into place and bolt the retaining strap back to the frame.
  
• 6Climb out, get in the truck and turn the ignition key to the run position. Wait for the fuel pump to stop running (this should be about 10 seconds) and start the truck.
  

push connect fitting to take appart back up plastic retainer ring (looks like flat washer)
then ther is a nap wire clip that you can push in to release locking tabs if to dirty pull it
straight out (pick hook works fine or pliers if you cn reach
then pull line will twisting back and forth untill free
new line should come with new retainer washer and wire clip
installed wire clip first then push line on until it looks in installed retainer
start motor and check for leaks

Engine Fan REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3.8L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the radiator upper sight shield.
3. Disengage the electrical connector, then remove the integrated relay control/constant control relay module assembly located on the radiator support.
4. Disconnect the fan electrical connector. Fig. 1: Disengage the fan electrical connector
   
   
5. If necessary, remove the air bag crash sensor.
6. Unbolt the fan/shroud assembly from the radiator and remove. Fig. 2: Unbolt the fan assembly from the radiator
   Fig. 3: Remove the fan from the engine
   Fig. 4: Slide the fan as an assembly up and away from the radiator. Be careful not to dislodge the mounting stud on the left side.
   
   
7. Remove the retainer and the fan from the motor shaft and unbolt the fan motor from the shroud.
8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedures. Tighten the fan shroud retaining bolt to 23–33 inch lbs. (2.6–3.7 Nm). Tighten the fan shroud retaining nut to 71–106 inch lbs. (8–12 Nm). Fig. 5: Constant control relay module location — 3.8L engines
   

4.6L Engine

1. Loosen the fan clutch-mounting shaft from the water pump hub.
2. Loosen the fan shroud from its radiator mounting and remove the lower hose from the shroud.
3. Lift the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud from the vehicle.
4. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
   Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
   
5. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15–20 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm).
6. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud. Mount the fan clutch shaft to the water pump hub and tighten to 37–46 ft. lbs. (50–62 Nm).
7. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws. Fig. 6: Fan and fan clutch assembly — 4.6L engine
   

5.0L Engines

1. Loosen the fan clutch-to-water pump hub retaining bolts.
2. If necessary, remove the drive belt from the water pump pulley.
3. Remove the fan shroud upper retaining screws. Lift the shroud to disengage it from the lower retaining clips.
4. Remove the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts and remove the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
5. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
   Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
   
6. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts evenly and alternately to 12–18 ft. lbs. (16–24 Nm).
7. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
8. Install the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts.
9. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws.
10. If removed, install the water pump drive pulley and adjust the belt tension; refer to Section 1.
11. Tighten the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts evenly and alternately to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm). Recheck the belt tension.

Autozone should have it in there help line, also new clips come with new fuel filter, or stop by ant repair shop there always some laiding around, I know we do, but that don't help you, sorry.

Its more than you think. 1. Inspect for a broken retaining clip by removing the valve body and then the valve body separator plate. Inspect the forward clutch control valve, spring, retaining clip, and valve body casting for damage (Figure 1).

2. If the clip is broken and the forward clutch control valve and/or valve body casting is damaged, replace the main control. The retaining clip has just been revised to prevent the chance of breakage. The revised Retaining Clip (F8DZ-7F194-AA) has circular cutouts on the side of the clip in place of the square cutouts on the previous design level clip (Figure 2).

3. Inspect the new main control (if required) before installing it and replace this retaining clip for the forward clutch control valve and spring if it's not the new design (Figure 2).

4. Any time service is required on any AX4N transaxle main control, inspect the retaining clip for the forward clutch control valve to be sure it is the latest design level, and replace the retaining clip if it is not. The revised clip is larger and will remain centered in the valve body casting groove. too repair estimate..400-800 dollars...Hope this help..Big shops will hurt yo pockets

new injectors are about 80$ but you can go to pick an pull and get a set of 4 for about 35-40$ and they are VERY weasy to remove 4 bolts for the fuel lines remove the plastic clips for the wires a retaining clip for each one and pull strait out dont wiggle to much but buy NEW O-rings

the clip that retains the hose into the slave must be bent or otherwise damaged, nothing else will cause this. u should be able to buy the clip.

Call you local auto recycler and see if they have what your looking for. It may take a few tries at a few places, but you'll find it.

Had a similar problem on my 2001 Mazda Tribute. Clutch pedal lever just fell off the pivot. Mazda evidently uses a plastic retainer. I fixed it by using a steel washer and steel clip pin to retain the clutch lever on the pivot. The steel washer takes up slack on the pivot

Mazda service centers are useless, and in my opinion, rip-offs.
I will never buy another Mazda product