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Headrest removal, 2001 Chevy Blazer, S10, 4 wheel drive, LT

Posted by Johnny Greene on

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Teresa

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  • 23 Answers

There should be a clip on the bottom of each post just under the carpeting they can both be popped out with a small flathead or needle nose.

Posted on Feb 09, 2018

5 Related Answers

mikehumble

  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 chevy blazer fuel pump (4 door)

yes you have to drop the tank. you will also need a fuel line tool to unhook the fuel lines. before you drop the tank see if tou can reach and wiggle the electrical connection on the top of the tank. these pumps have a pigtail issue. please rate

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

Anonymous

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 push button type

small sylinoid on the top of the transfer case needs replaced. easy to do. it has three vacumelines going to it just trun out and replace like a bolt.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: I need to remove the front headrest of a 2008 chevy cobalt lt

Push the button and pull up on it at the same time

Posted on May 25, 2009

ourhowse

Dar

  • 2007 Answers

SOURCE: Headrest removal

When you pull it up all the way, you should see a very small hole at the base of the rod. Poke a small nail in there and that will release the catch.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85241 Answers

SOURCE: replace lower ball joints on a 2000 chevy blazer 4

Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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