Blue wire from computer on 1997 S-10 not hooked up to anything.

If you do not have a power antenna you will not hook anything to the blue wire, if you have an amp you can use the blue wire for a remote turn on for the amp, otherwise leave it unhooked and tape the end so as not to cause a short. The yellow wire should be your constant power and the red wire should be your key on power (or vise versa) Not sure what radio you have, but you should be able to google your model number and get a diagram for it. You will hook either the red or the yellow to constant power to save your station and clock settings, and the other hook to a keyed power source so the radio will work when you turn the key to acc or on positions.

The auto manufacturers make their wiring harnesses in batches generally for all models. Then they hook up only the features that are installed in a particular model. This saves the labor in making different harnesses for each model.
In DC auto wiring, the black is generally the ground wire whereas it is it is the "hot" wire in AC wiring. Blue wires are generally control wires. So it seems that you do not have any voltage nor control for your sensor. Before you hook up anything, with a volt ohm meter check to see if you have 12 volts on your black wire. You more than likely do unless your fuse is blown. Replace the fuse. Then try hooking up the black wire to the appropriate terminal on your sensor and checking it out. If it works OK then hook up the blue wire to its appropriate terminal on the sensor. It should now work properly with control. If it doesn't work when you hook up the black wire and you have a good fuse,, then you probably have a defective sensor. Replace the sensor.

The blue wire from the stereo is for something else, like a retracting antenna. So don't connect the blue wire there. The Blue wire of the suppressor is the 'new' Red hot wire that connects to the red wire (12 volts input) of the stereo.

The lights are getting power and ground from somewhere. If they're not getting it from the light switch, then it probably has something to do with the blue/red wire you mentioned. If you disconnect the wires from the switch what happens? You don't give much info as to type of vehicle. Removing the fuse for the lights in question does what? If you have no more parking lights once you remove the fuse for the parking lights that's a good thing. It means the issue is limited to that circuit. This kind of problem would normally be in the switch, but since you had the burned wire incident I'd focus there. Also you need to find out why the wire "toast"ed in the first place. Good luck.

sounds like your wires may have got crossed and when you went to hook it back up the solonoid got shorted out... go back to square one, follow your wires and make sure positive wires stay positive and negative wires stay negative, then hook your battery up and try, if you get just a click, is it your battery? make sure it is charged, check the ground cable at the battery, the engine, the body and the starter, still nothing? have the starter tested.

Won Start or won't keep running , Well if it won't start you need to hook thebattery back up. But if it won't stay runnig after youstart it then removed the hot wire ,(your Alternadter is'nt charging )

If I understand you correctly you have found the blue wire in the chassis wiring but don't know where to hook it up. It doesn't hook up to the truck, you connect it to the blue wire coming from your brake controller. You will have to drill a hole or poke a hole in an existing grommet in the firewall to get the wire through. There should be another wire usually orange or red along with the blue wire in the truck wiring that you hook up to the load center under the hood on one of the unused studs. It is for the charge circuit on your trailers if so equipped. You will probably need to install a fuse for the stud. It should be clearly marked on the load center lid.

sounds like an over draw on system
computers need min 10.5 volts to stay alive (working) other wise they shut down
i would start by charging batteries fully and disconect from vehicle for 24 hr
then re check before hooking up if they staied charged batteries are good
then hook up bateries negatives then hook up a voltage meter to performed a parasedict
test other word in series to positive cable on wire and other to battery positive if draw is high
on meter start removing fuses on at a time until voltage on meter drops
you have know located source of draw that is killing batteries know diag that problem
ex . under hood light staies on........glove box stays on.......aftermarket stuff inproperly conected
good luck

My best advice is to put in an in line fuse. You can buy them at wal-mart for less than $8 bucks. Its easy, cheap, and saves your lights.

First you need to UN DO your first hook up. Put it back the way it was before you splice. You have evendently spliced the wrong wires. Without schematics colors and stripe won't mean anything.

Be thankful you haven't damaged anything or burn something out in your control module.

You need to find the schematic wiring for the radio.

Or if you have a taple player in the radio, by the tape adapter for CD player. Until you can find out what wires PRE AMP the tape player then you can splice.