I have a kia sodona so i pushed red wire in plug for coil and shorted to ground..sparked lost power to coils..checked fuses.still no power to coil when key on...stuck. help what did i burn out..

Check wires. You have a short circuit. May need a new set of spark plug wires to include ignition wire.

Check the IGn fuses.
At the ignition coils check for power on the BLK/RED wires with the ignition switch ON.
Check for ground on the BLK wires on both coils.

The PCM doesn't supply power to the coil's ,it supply's a ground . A fuse supply's B+ power to the coil's . Your vehicle has what is called coil on plug ignition system , a coil for each cylinder . Should have plug wires ,has a spark plug boot . IT is common for these coil on plug system's to fry the driver (transistor) inside the PCM ,if the spark plug gap becomes so worn that the spark can not jump said gap. It shorts inside the coil sending high voltage to the PCM driver . There are video's on youtube showing how to test a PCM driver circuit . Your coil has two wires , one should have B+ voltage an the other goes to the PCM . If your coil fried i look for a short to ground on the control side circuit . This video is for a ford 5.4 l V-8 coil on plug system ,same thing just 2 more coils .
Ford 5 4 shorted coil primary winding and bad computer driver

There are two separate circuits for your ignition coils. Fuse 18 supplies power for the EVEN numbered coils and fuse 19 provides power for the ODD numbered coils. The right bank of cylinders are number 1-3-5 and the left bank of cylinders are 2-4-6. If the fuse is blown, you need to find out WHY. It could be that the wire between the coils and the fuse is shorted to ground or it could be a shorted/defective coil. An open ground circuit on one side will also make one complete bank inoperable.

Since you just changed the engine I would first check to make sure that you got your grounds connected. The coils ground at G-107 and G-108. Ground G-107 is located toward the rear of the cylinder head directly above the starter. G-108 is located near the front of the other cylinder head/block area.

If you find the fuse blown, I would recommend pulling the fuse out and disconnecting all of the coils on that bank and checking for continuity to ground on the PINK/BLACK wires at the coil connectors. If there is continuity to ground, then you must trace the circuit beween the coils and the fuse block to find out where it is shorted.

If there is no continuity to ground, then you should check the resistance of the coils. Check the resistance between the two coil connector pins. If you find one coil with considerably less resistance than the others, this is your problem-child. Normal resistance should be around 11 or 12 Ohms.

If no difference can be seen by checking resistance between each of the coil pins, then also check for continuity between the coil pins and ground. There should be no continuity. If you find a coil that has continuity between either of its two connector pins and ground, then THIS is your problem.

Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

I have an 2002 Kia sedona the code p0304 means an 4 cylinder misfire and also the wiring and plugs.I noticed an while back that when I press the gas smoke will come from my tailpipe and now my van is hesitating to go and it stumbles and the check engine light is on,I have the same code p0304.

Check for spark at the spark plugs. If no spark, remove distributor cap and inspect the inside of the cap and the rotor for obvious signs of wear or damage. Check for spark at the coil wire by removing the coil wire from the center of the distibutor cap, and, holding the end of it close to the engine block, have someone crank the engine. There should be a very strong spark. If there was spark at the coil but not at the plugs, replace the distributor cap and rotor. If there is no spark at the coil, you either have no power or ground at the coil, or the coil is bad. With the ignition ON, there should be 12v at the red wire for the ignition coil. if not, check the fuses. Check for the pulsing ground signal of the ignition coil at the other wire ( I think a white wire) using a test light clipped to battery + while the engine is being cranked. If there is no light, the problem is likely the ignition module or pick-up coil, which is located in the distributor. Make sure that the wiring and connections are in good shape for these items before condemning them.
Pick-up coil should have about 1500 ω of resistance.
Good Luck

Change the fuel filter and pressure regulator, restart the computer.

you might see a plastic cosmetic cover over the valve cover area , with like 4 screws holding it down , allen headed screws i think , you will find your wires and plugs under that cover . actually you will find 2 coils with 2 10mm bolts on each coil , each coil has a spark plug boot built on to it for 1 plug and 1 actual spark plug wire to a second plug , very short , unplug the coil connector, unbolt it and pluck it out of the hole , and see your spark plug .

J5

make sure that the distributor module is ok first.Check that the ign coil is getting a pulse signal when engine is turning,and check ecm fuse and that engine is grounded to frame.