99 Dodge Dakota Ext cab 4wd 3.9 V-6 Front end torque specs anyone?

Brake Hose Bracket Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Lower Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 128 Nm (94 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm Bumper .................... 32 Nm (23 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 165 Nm (121 lb ft)
Shock Absorber to Control Arm Bolts .................... 27 Nm (20 lb ft)
Shock Absorber Upper Nut .................... 11 Nm (100 lb in)
Splash Shield to Steering Knuckle Bolts .................... 26 Nm (19 lb ft)
Stabilizer Bar Bracket to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 33 Nm (24 lb ft)
Stabilizer Link Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Outer Tie Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts .................... 24 Nm (18 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 100 Nm (74 lb ft)
Upper Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 190 Nm (140 lb ft)
Adjuster Tube Clamp Nut .................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Frame Nut .................... 99 Nm (73 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Steering Gear Nut .................... 250 Nm (184 ft. lbs.)
Relay Rod to Re Rod Nut .................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Frame Bracket Nut .................... 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

this was copied off of the following link. should be same torque requirments-
this is off a 2004 manual,which should be real close if not exact

INSTALLATION
1. Align reference marks and install pitman arm.
2. Install the lock washer and retaining nut on the pitman
shaft and tighten nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drag link (1) to the pitman arm (5). Install
the nut (4) and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Then
an additional 90°.
4. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle to the
surface. Center steering wheel> and adjust toe,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. After adjustment tighten tie rod adjustment sleeve
clamp> bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Position the clamp on the sleeve so retaining
bolt is located on the bottom side of the
sleeve

got it from here -

Tie rod end torque spec DodgeTalk Dodge Car Forums Dodge Truck Forums and...

Tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm
tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft . lbs (81Nm)

Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do. There are - shocks -lower ball joints -upper ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -idler arm -pitman arm -center link -stabilizer links -stabilizer bars It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs:
• Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs
• Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs
• Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs
• Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs
• Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
   • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
     Steering components
     
     
   • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
   • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
   • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod
     
     
   • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud
     
     
   • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
   • Relay rod from the vehicle
3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
6. Clean the threads on the ball studs

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Relay rod to the vehicle
   • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
   • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
   • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
   • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
   • Tie rod ends
   • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Check the wheel alignment
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

hope this helps...

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Tire and wheel
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut
     
   • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
     
   • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
     
   • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut
     
   • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
     
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
     
   • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
     
4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
     
2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
   
   • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
     
3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
   
   • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
     
   • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
     
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
     
   • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
     
   • Tire and wheel
     
4. Lower the vehicle
   
   • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
     
   • Wheel center cap, if removed
     
5. Check the front wheel alignment.