2002 mazda tribute3.0,runs hot,new fan,new sensor,checked all fuses,new thermostats,new water pump,gages show in the middle never movers up,unplug sensor fans run,just lost at this point

https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/radiator-fans-not-working-ac-stops-too.209958/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHQQZO_fozs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iseBaHx-OG4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b15CLtqWNs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20Z5CykxCEM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5lBwp6Q8lc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqv17KY1gHg

https://www.autogenius.info/mazda-6-from-2004-fuse-box-diagram/

blocked radiator, blown head gasket, new thermostat in wrong
If the overheating is occurring at standing , low speeds or high rpm low road speed conditions , replace the viscous fan hub as it is not driving the fan properly
If you have electric fans check
bot fuses, engine coolant sensor, relay, fans and wiring

The ports in the block could be cloged not letting the coolent flow completley threw and its getting to hot

Well it can be one of too things the gage or the temp sensor.
its most likely the sensor. The temp sensor is normally mounted with the thermostat housing which is on the top of the engine and has the top radiator hose going to it if you can't see it, try taking off the plastic covers. With the ignition on so all gages are reading go and unplug the sensor the gage should drop back strata way, this tells you that you have the wright sensor there are sometimes 2 one for the gage and the other for cold starting. There is a possibility that the problem may be coursed by a squashed or rubbed throw wire so if you can't make the gage return to cold by disconnecting the wires then start following the wires back along the engine.
I think you will find a faulty sensor is the cores of your problems and should be easy to pick up at any car part place.

Have you confirmed the water pump is working? If the car is moving at 10-20 MPH you should have enough air going across the radiator to prevent overheating in a moderate climate at this time of year.

check fan fuse if its not blown check fan motor 2 see if its burned out

It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the A/C air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniture jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....
Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

Try connecting your fans directly to the battery to know if they are working. If they don't replace your fans. If they are ok, then change the thermostat.
Try this:
When engine cold, remove radiator cap, then fill the radiator with water and start the engine. If water jumps out of the radiator and continues going out as the engine warms up, then you have a bad head gasket and that's why is running hot.

if the bottom hose never heats up then theres a flow problem. have u run the car up without the thermostat in ?? just cuz its new doesnt mean it works !! also radiators themselves can block up, back flush ur cooling system and check the radiator holds the water it should, if the bottom half of the rad is blocked, this will cause ur problem, the radiator sounds like its ur problem, make sure u blead the system aswell. the 318 4cylinder has a bleaad valve on the top corner of the rad if i remember correctly.

Could be the coolant temperature sending sensor , the circuit the gauge, incorrect coolant mix , water pump, defective radiator or the vehicle could be running hot.Have the vehicle checked out by a repair shop.