Best way to fix a cracked oil sump on moterbike

OIL PAN OR DRAW TUBE?

Would need more information on the year, manufacturer, model and engine size. That said, most engine oil coolers do not use engine coolant as a cooling medium. They are mounted in front of the radiator and use air cooling. If that is the case, water in the sump would most likely be due to a blown head gasket, cracked head, or cracked engine block.
Oil coolers for automatic transmissions are often installed internal to the vehicle radiator, and if one of these breaks, then coolant will infiltrate the transmission sump and transmission oil will infiltrate the cooling system.

clean area real good fix with jb weld

replace the sump as you probably have cracked it. check the condition of the oil pump pick up as it may be bent and cracked . Best to have the job done by an accredited mechanic as there may be suspension damage as well

Because of the material used in the construction of the sump and the fact that the oil impregnates into the surface of the steel any welding repairs to the sump are going to be "iffy" at best as the material cracks around the weld area.. I imagine the sump was removed to carry out the weld in which case I would be looking at loose sump bolts or the gasket was over tightened and has squeezed out allowing it to leak. Check that the oil sender wire hasn't fallen off and is shorting out on the engine

Steel putty may work, but it is at best a short term solution and even with the most diligently cleaned and roughened surface, will eventually come loose due it expansion differences in the materials. The permanent solutions is to either replace the oil pan or have the crack brazed up professionally. Both will require removal of the oil pan.

Try this.

On level ground, jack up the front of the car and support it with axle stands.

Get an open container that will take more than 5 ltrs.

Under the engine block you will find the sump.

On the sump you should find a 13mm nut, this is the drain plug.

Undo the drain plug and have the empty container directly below the sump plug.

Retain the sump plug and clean it with a rag.

When the oil has drained out of the sump, put back the plug making sure the washer is in good condition and the plug is tight.

Now unscrew the oil filter having the old oil container below the filter housing to catch any oil.

Wipe around the the filter housing to remove any and all old oil.

Now offer up the new oil filter but do not tighten.

If the new filter fits the oil filter housing, then remove it and lightly oil the rubber seal on the filter with clean oil.

Now refit the filter and tighten it up. Not too tight, you can do this by hand but get it as tight as you can.

Now lower the car to to the ground.

At the top of the engine you will find an oil filler cap. Undo this cap.

Now put in the new oil to just below the full mark on the dip stick. Let the oil drain through the engine to the sump for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level.

If the level is between 1/2 and full, replace the filler cap and start the engine.

Now look at the oil filter and the sump plug for any leaks. Also check around the oil filler cap for oil leaks and spillage.

With the engine turned off. Clean any oil spillages and tighten up the oil filter, sump and oil filler cap as required.

Now leave the oil to drain back to the sump for a few minutes.

Check the oil level and top up as required.

I find that it is best to top the oil up to just below the Max mark.

This should solve the problem.

Ray

This is a real big problem with these cars! I have had the engine apart TWICE and it still leaks!

My guess is that the Aluminum parts are Warped and no matter how much sealant you use... it's going to leak. I used oil dye too and though I can see when it's coming from..the leak just won't seal!


I own a garage in CA

So, unless you have mad skills take it in..it's not going to be cheap to fix and it might not stay fixed for long. we have gotten it to leak less but never to stop %100.

hi common fault on these is the oil switch oil runs down the block around the oil filter and down the sump as you are driving along the air draft blows it all over the place so clean it up run the engine and from underneath the car see where it is coming from the only other things on the sump that would leak are the sump plug washer and the crankshaft main oil seal at the rear of the engine it will be the switch best of luck paul

Hi there I had the SAME problem in my 318i. I cracked mine driving over a parking barrier in the road (long story!) Anyway. Take your car to a garage and they will drain all your oil out of the engine and sump area. They can then inject a resin into the hairline crack and once it's all set, they'll put the oil back into your car and you won't have any leak from that area again! try that first before getting a new sump. As the area needs to be bone dry from oil, they draining of oil out of your car and the waiting for the resin to set make it pretty much an all day job. Good luck with it all if you've not repaired it yet.