Question about 1998 Nissan Altima

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How do you replace the wiring pigtail for the thermal transmitter on a 98 nissan altima?

It splices off the altinator and two wires run about 8 inches long to a conector with a little metal circle on it the circle hooks on to a post on the sensor coming out of the upper radiator hose engine side. The wires coming into the conector have seen better days andthe little metal circle broke out of the plastic housing.

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You need a soldering gun and electrical shrink tubing to repair this.

Posted on Dec 28, 2016


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I have had 4 alternator and four new battery go dead the voltage reg on 3 of the altinators have tested bad changed battery conectors fuses and checked all the wires to and from altinator and battery the...

Look for a loose output wire and connection. If the connection is loose dnd making and braking contact, it will blow the alternator. Also check the alternator ground, making sure it is not making and braking contact. The ground is the attachment to the engine bracket. You may have to add a large black wire from the alternator to the engine frame.

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I believe that the splice for the cam sensor is about 8 inches back in the harness. Power to the cam supplies several sensors. I have fixed a few that the splice was bad, There is very little room to work in to get to the splice, but it's not impossible to fix.

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Ecu wires tore from conectors

I would probably get another connector or try to fix that one.
The problem is the wires are soldered to metal tips that have clips to hold them in the plastic connector. In most cases once you pull the wires out by force you can not put them back and make them stay, the metal clips are broken. You can get replacement tips which is a chore to resolder to each wire, and chances are you may not have enough wire to cut and replace the tips. Or you can get another connecter with the wires already locked in and splice them into the old harness.

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Aug 15, 2011 | 1978 Chevrolet C1500

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I'm getting juice to the washer fluid pump but it doesn't run. I bypass the wiring harness and hook it directly to the battery and the pump runs. When I put a test light on it I'm getting juice to the...

For the circuit to operate, it must have both battery voltage and ground. If there is battery voltage at the connector, then hook your test light to the Positive side of the battery and check for ground on the opposite (Black) wire. The washer pump grounds at ground # G-201. It is located behind the right sie of the glove box. There is also a splice in this ground circuit. It is located inside the main instrument panel wiring harness about 7 inches from where the harness breaks out and goes to the radio connections. (It could be a bad/loose splice)

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Lights go dim then battery lights comes on then transmission light comes on already changed battery and altinator

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Turn ignition key and just get click from soliniod under front hood one white wire and one black wire and dash lights go out,new batt and starter fitted

here are a couple of quick easy thing to do to isolate what the problem is. if your battery is new and fully charged. then take a set of jumper cables and put one clamp on the negitive post of the battery and its corresponding clamp on the alternator bracket on the motor this will insure that you have a complete ground which you need to ingauge the starter. in dc current the amperage is constant and the voltage is variable. a good ground is needed.
if the charge in your battery is depleted jump the car to get it started. then remove the positive cable from the batteries possitive post if the car stays running then the altinator is charging this illiminates the alternator from being the problem. if the car stays running its good if the car dies then the altinator is bad and needs replaced.
check the wires hooked to the starter to make sure that they are not gounding out on the block or the exaust.

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