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Cars & Trucks Master
Re: Removal of broken bolt on thermostat 06 Chevy cobalt
There are a lot of youtube video movies about this process. It can be a mess. Bolts are harder steel than the surrounding metal. Drilling them out and using an easy out is on way. If there is enough stud left to get a grip on it with a vicegrips is another, welding a piece onto it is another and the heat helps loosen it.
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With the exhaust manifold off. If there is some of the bolt sticking out. You'll need a torch to heat the head up, red hot around the bolt. Also a pair of needle nose vise grips to grab it with and turn it out. You'll have to heat it several times to get out. No bolt showing, you best bet it to pull the head. Drill the bolt and extract it.
You will need to remove your air cleaner and duct assembly. You will then see the thermostat housing sandwiched between the back of the intake manifold and the exhaust crossover pipe. The service manual says to remove the exhaust crossover pipe, but trust me, you do not want to attempt this unless you have access to a torch to heat the nuts that hold the thing to the exhaust manifolds. If you break a stud, then you are going to be removing an exhaust manifold for broken stud removal. If you take the 8mm screws out of the heat shield on the exhaust crossover pipe, you can wiggle the heat shield out. This will provide enough room to get the lower thermostat housing bolt out. It is a pain to do it this way, but it works and will prevent broken exhaust pipe studs. Sometimes the little 8mm bolts will also break, but since they only hold the heat shield, it is of no great consequence.
Then all you have to do is remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the manifold. The thermostat is directly under it. Then the only other real "trick" is getting the thermostat and O-ring to stay in the correct position while you put the thermostat bolts back in. A trick that I use is a small wooden wedge. I put the thermostat housing into place over the thermostat and O-ring, then place mt wedge between the thermostat housing and the crossover pipe to hold the thermostat housing in place while I start the bolts. Otherwise, the thermostat tends to slide out the bottom while you are trying to get the bolts started.
Not sure if you have the 2.7L or the 3.5L so I'll post for both sizes for you:
2.7L Removal procedures
Drain cooling system.
Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
Remove nuts from heater tube flange studs.
Loosen starter bolt at heater tube bracket.
Pull heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.
Remove bolt and two studs.
Remove thermostat housing, O-ring and thermostat.
Remove thermostat housing bolts.
3.5L Removal procedures
Drain cooling system.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Disconnect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
Disconnect radiator and heater hoses from thermostat housing.
Remove thermostat housing bolts.
Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
The OEM thermostat is staked in place at the factory. To ensure proper seating of replacement thermostat, carefully remove the bulged metal from the thermostat housing using a suitable hand held grinder. It is not necessary to restake the replacement thermostat into the thermostat housing
Engine Coolant Thermostat and Housing Replacement, Tools Required: Hose Clamp Pliers.
IMPORTANT:Use the hose clamp pliers to gently release tension on the hose clamp until the hose clamp lock feature engages allowing removal of the hose.
Fig. 1: View Of Radiator Inlet & Outlet Hoses
Drain the cooling system.
Using the hose clamp pliers, release the tension on the hose clamp at the thermostat housing and reposition the clamp.
Remove the radiator outlet hose from the thermostat housing.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Gasoline Engines CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
Drain the radiator until the coolant is below the thermostat level (below the level of the intake manifold).
Remove the water outlet elbow assembly from the engine. Remove the thermostat from the engine, or, on the 4.8L, from inside the adapter elbow. To install:
Clean the gasket surfaces on the water outlet elbow and the intake manifold. Use a new gasket when installing the elbow to the manifold.
Install the new thermostat making sure the spring side is inserted into the engine, or, on the 4.8L, downward into the thermostat housing. Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). On the 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L tighten the studs to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). On the 7.4L tighten the bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
Refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 1: Remove the thermostat housing bolts
Fig. 2: Remove the thermostat housing from the engine
Fig. 3: Remove the thermostat from the housing
Fig. 4: Thermostat housing - 4.3L engines
Fig. 5: Thermostat housing - 4.8L engines
Fig. 6: Thermostat housing - 5.0L and 5.7L engines
Fig. 7: Thermostat housing - 7.4L engines, R/V series
Fig. 8: Thermostat housing - 7.4L engines C/K series
Drain the cooling system to a point below the thermostat.
Fig. 9: Thermostat housing - 6.2L engines, R/V series
Fig. 10: Thermostat housing - 6.2L and 6.5L diesel engines - 1988-95 C/K series
Remove the engine oil dipstick tube brace and the oil fill brace.
Remove the upper radiator hose.
Remove the water outlet.
Remove the thermostat and gasket.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Use a new gasket coated with sealer, Make sure that the spring end of the thermostat is in the engine. Tighten the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm) on 1992-95 models.
Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front
1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Hub Bolt
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).