Labor quote to replace the egr vaulve on a 2005 dodge grand carravan v6-201 3.3 xzz motor

The part may be faulty, or there is a communications issue. The only way to check is with a good auto electrician and a Pro Grade scanner / computer. First, I would just reset the code.

https://www.google.com/search?q=P0404

..

The second Code 404 is for a problem in the same area. It is about the performance of the EGR valve circuit.

Cleaning the ports is a good start. Also checking for a clogged EGR passage beneath any mounting gasket would be a prime place to look.

I deal mostly wth Ford products and this is similar to their problems. Apparently the sensors on both brands are installed downflow of the EGR and triggering sensor. On the Ford products, when airflow through the EGR is measured and found to be weak or non-existent; it blames the EGR and sensor for not opening to provide flow. The actual problem is there is a clogged flow passage. The parts are often fine. You can not have flow at the ending, when you do not have flow to begin with.

So many parts are replaced needlessly because of this misengineered system. Now it is debateable that a sticking EGR could cause the passages to be blocked. It becomes an argument of which causes which in the first place, so you did not hurt anything by replacing the parts. You are just not finished with prepping the area for the repair.

I hope my explanation is helpful.

sounds like the sending unit is going bad in the tank

Is this for an EGR valve? If so, If you see XZZ in your VIN then you use the first one. If you do not see it then you use the 'except' option.

Try (repairpal.com) for estimate for your particular area. You may have to enter Grand Caravan to get the 3.8L engine .
I'm thinking 2 hrs.

3.3 engines has the egr valve with transducer.you have to replace the whole unit. code p0406 what its trying to tell you your egr valve circuit is short to ground.it has failed .

by the alternator plugged into the egr valve.

if it is a 2004 the 3 yr 36000 mile warranty has probably expired. i assume it has a 2.4L the egr is on the drivers side rear part of the head...if memory serves me correctl the valve is about $125 plus and hour of labor

that would be a crank sensor code 10

Hi, this is my first post. I had the same problem with my 2005 Grand Caravan. Great van, but all of the sudden, the check engine light came on, and then it started driving "jerky." I found this post, along with others on the web, and diagnosed it myself. Let me outline how I did that, since this will accumulate info from several different sites:

1. I turned the ignition key from the "on" to the "run" position about 5 times, and a code showed up in the mileage slot. My code was P 0404, which read more like "tripP 0404".
2. I looked up that code on google, and also asked the guy at Autozone. Both said it was a bad EGR valve.

**Side note: there is a little thing here in the 2005 Grand Caravan called a "XZZ Option Code" in relation to the EGR valve. As in, when you go to get a new EGR valve, they are going to ask you if you need the "XZZ Option" or the "XZZ Exception." When you ask the guy at Autozone what the difference is, he doesn't know. So, after a little research, the difference is this: if your VIN has the letters "XZZ" in it, then you need the "XZZ Option." If your VIN doesn't have "XZZ" then you don't need that option. (Thanks a lot, Dodge, for that bit of stupidity.)***

3. Autozone didn't have the EGR in stock, but Federated Auto Parts (aka KOI, in our area--Cincinnati) had five in stock, so I got one--it cost me about $85.00
4. After getting home, I changed it out, in the following steps.
a. I disconnected the battery.
b. I disconnected the electrical line coming to the EGR (by the way, the EGR sits just above the alternator...and if you don't know what the alternator is, take the parts to your local mechanic and ask him to change it out for you...)
c. I disconnected the vacuum line that comes into the top of the EGR, as well as disconnecting the other end of that line, just to get it out of the way. That took 4 bolts, and they were 8 mm.
d. I removed the two bolts (10mm) holding the EGR in place, and they were a bit tight to get to. I would suggest a 1/4" drive U-joint to get to the bottom one, but a two inch extension held just right will get the job done--I didn't have the u-joint for my socket so it can be done without it...not much fun though.)
e. I replaced the metal gasket (it came in the box with the new EGR), and reversed the steps to put everything back together.

After restarting and test driving the minivan, I have no check engine light, and the "shuttering" is gone. I'm about to drive to Texas next week...we'll see if it solved the problem. More news later.

I love the internet. Ride free, citizen!
"Some people have money. Some people have knowledge. Unfortunately, the people with knowledge usually end up with the other people's money."