At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1977 now that is a blast from the past.
finding books that old is hard, but are sold in book stores.
but from Carter, and very very old jeep books.
4 engine then
and 2 Carters, i see.
232/258cu-in, with YF carb
here ill paste the words
"To adjust the float drop, hold the air horn in the upright position and measure the distance between the top of the float, at the extreme outer end, and the air horn casting. The measurement should be 11/4 in. (31.75mm) to 1973, 13/8 in. (35mm) 1974-78. Adjust by bending the tab at the rear of the float lever."
Www.carter.com ask for exploded views of your carb you'll need the tag number on the carb. Its relatively easy to do as long as your float level is correct or google carter carberators using the tag number
if the carburetor keeps flooding out, the float could be stuck in the up position. tap lightly on & around fuel reservoir to free. depending on age of carburetor, you might need to put in a carburetor kit.
You must remove the fuel tank to access the fuel level sending unit. the float is one part of the sending unit. The whole part is called the fuel tank module and is about $200.00 for the part. Do not use a cheap replacement, use a quality part like those made by Carter or Bosch.
The problem is in your carburator. Was it rebuilt in a shop or by yourself or a friend?Did they know what it was going on? It could be that the float level is too low. It could be that you have the plunger rod for the power valve in the wrong hole. It could be that you just need to adjust the mixture screws on the front. I would start with the mixture screws. Turn them in until they seat but don't force them,be gentle. Turn them out 1 and 1/4 turns each and start from there. You will have to turn each one separately from here.Set your curb idle about 500 RPM and turn 1 screw out until you hear the idle start to go up and then back it off until it starts to falter or miss, them come ahead just enough to bring the engine out of that. Then do the same with the other screw. Reset your idle and rev the engine by hand, a couple of cracks and then crack the 4 barrels open and let go. If it stalls then open the idle screws about 1/8 turn and try again. When the engine will return to idle off the 4 barrels without stalling your mixture screws are set right. Make sure you keep resetting the curb idle, usually 500RPM for a standard and 750 RPM for an automatic.
If you rebuilt the carb yourself then look on the rebuild sheet that came with the kit for your engine application and make sure you have the power rod in the right hole and that you have the correct float level. Different applications have different float levels even with the same size engine. Set them for the engine you have it on, if the carb came off something else. Hope this helps.
The mixture screws are at the bottom front of the 2 front barrels. They poke into the barrels from outside the carb.
Butterfly usually refers top the throttle plates that open and close the barrels, but if you have a quadrajet, they may also refer to the upper plates on the back 2 barrels that only open when the throttle is wide open.
The float level is the distance of the top of the float when the float valve is closed. As gas flows into the bowl thru the float valve, the float rises and eventually closes when the proper float level is reached by the gas.
YOU CHECK FLOAT LEVEL LOOKING AT THE SIGHT GLASS ON THE RIGHT OF THE CARBURETOR.FUEL LEVEL SHOULD ALIGN WITH THE DOT ON THE SIGHT GLASS.IF THE LEVEL IS ABOVE OR UNDER THE DOT THE CARBURETOR HAS TO BE DISASSEMBLED.TO SET FLOATS REMOVE AND INVERT THE AIR HORN UNTIL THE FLOAT ARM JUST TOUCHES THE NEEDLEVALVE OR THERE IS ABOUT 0.1 mm OR 0.004 INCH CLEARANCE BETWEEN THEM.MEASURE THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE BOTTOM OF THE AIR HORN GASKET INSTALLED.AND THE CENTER OF THE BOTTOM OF THE FLOAT.THE DISTANCE SHOULD MEASURE 36.4 mm 1.39 - 1.47 INCH. ADJUST BY TURNING THE NEEDLE VALVE SEAT.BE CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW THE VALVE SEAT TO PROTRUDE FROM THE SEAT ATTACHING BOSS.WHICH WOULD ALLOW THE VALVE TO FALL.IF THIS IS THE CASE BEND THE FLOAT ARM SLIGHTLY UNTIL PROPER CLEARANCE CAN BE OBTAINED.WHEN CARBURETOR IS INSTALLED CHECK FLOAT LEVEL BY LOOKING INTO THE CARBURETOR FLOAT SIGHT GLASS I MENTION IN INFORMATION ABOVE.IF YOU HAVE A 1487cc AND 1600cc CVCC MODELS WITH THE KEIHIN 3 BARREL CARBURETOR.THIS WOULD DEALERSHIP JOB.THIS TYPE IS HARD TO ADJUST.
I would check the float level first if you are going to adjust the carb., carters like to flood and if you check your spark plugs you can tell if your running rich. The other adjustment you will make with a simple vacuum gauge.You should probally check distributor points,and timing as well. More info would help, like is it back firing up the carb or out the exhaust or when accelerrating or decelerating.
×