I have replaced plugs and wires but still having the problem, is she grounding or is it a sensor

code p 0112 refers to intake air temp (IAT) sensor --circuit malfunction===cause --wiring short to graound--wiring short to positive --IAT sensor ---ECM
code p 0117 refers to engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor--circuit malfunction=== causes --coolant thermostat---wiring short to ground--wiring short to positive ---ECT sensor
code p 0122 refers to throttle position (TP) sensor A/ accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A low input === causes wiring short to ground--TP/APP sensor --ECM
There are 3 responses to p 0122 and all refer to TP switch /sensor plus wiring open /short to ground/ short to positive
code p 0513 refers to incorrect immobilizer key=== causes immobilizer system
code p 0556 refers to brake booster pressure sensor---circuit range / performance=== causes --wiring---poor connection---brake booster pressure sensor---ECM
code p 0565 refers to cruise control master switch. off signal --malfunction === causes wiring---cruise control master switch--ECM
by reading all the codes you will see that common causes are wiring problems and ECM so may be a quick check would be to replace the ECM with a known working unit first and work back from there

No year make or model? Good luck on that PDF. I tried for years to find them. You may want to check the cam sensor. Cam and crank have the same power wires. And if you only have .5 volts, this is a problem. Voltage for these are 5, 8, or 12, again depending on year.

check for proper voltages and grounds at the MAF sensor. if okay replace the sensor.

Here's a link to check out. How to Diagnose P0135 Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1 GM 3 5L

The cam and crank sensors have the same power wire. Go after that one. They also have the same ground, but other sensors connect to it also. So it's not the ground. And they have separate return signal wires. Not them either.

see this steps and fix it. God bless you
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or cranshaft position sensor CKP

A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.

Your OIL Pressure Sensor Serves as A Protection Device Along with its Primary Purpose, If It Sesces NO OIL PRESSURE >> (Or it Malfunctions) It WILL NOT Provide the GROUND that the FUEL PUMP RELAY Or Fuel PUMP REQUIRE to Turn ON the Fuel PUMP, To Check this Disconnect the Sensor and LOACTE the KEY ON POSITIVE WIRE of the 3 WIRES on It>> K THIS WIRE DO NOT BOTHER it Identifie it & MARK IT)) and Use the Other 2 Wires>. JUMPER Wire Accross the 2 Remaining Wires on this Sensor PLUG This Should Cause the Fuel Pump RELAY to CLICK Thus GROUNDING the Relsy Allowing it to Provide ground Resulting in POWER to FUEL PUMP. If This Jumper Procedure Works REPLACE the 3 Wire OIL SENDING UNIT Some have 2 an you ONLY NEED the 1. I am Sure this Has and WIll Give you MORE INSIGHT On this System and Help you get it Running. Have a GOOD DAY !!

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and"http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm". Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or "http://www.aa1car.com/library/crank_sensors.htm".
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.----
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if it a standard check the cluch safety switch, i had a switch come apart on a f250 before and caused this

overheating could be caused by a stuck thermostat or a clogged radiator not firing on #1 plug could be a fouled plug or bad wire or it may be grounding on the block and your coiil may not have been put in at the right mark