Question about 1997 Saab 900
Car sound like running on 3 pistons when motor hot or cold , changed plugs and cleaned co2 valve
Have you checked you're actually getting a spark on all 4? Take out each plug in turn, leave it connected and ensure the metal body of the plug is touching a metal part of the car (the cylinder head will do :) ) Get someone to crank the car for you & see if there's a good, fat spark on the end of the plug. If you find one doesn't have a spark, start by changing over the plug lead with one of the others & see if the fault moves with the lead. If so, replace the faulty lead; actually, I'd replace the set as if one has gone, the others won't be far behind.
There are many other faults that could cause that symptom but I don't know that engine well enough to be much help :(
Let us know how you get on.
Posted on Dec 12, 2016
SOURCE: I need to know how
The secondary (high voltage) side of the ignition coil can be checked with an ohmmeter.
1. Label and disconnect spark plug wires from coil pack.
2. Connect an accurate ohmmeter between terminals 1 and 6 and take reading. Repeat for terminals 3 and 4 and for terminals 2 and 5.
Note the readings and compare the three
If no faults are found with the supply voltage, impulse signal, wiring, and resistance at coil, then the ignition coil pack should be replaced.
Posted on Aug 08, 2008
SOURCE: 96' saab safety neutral switch
It is under the battery tray. Here is where it is and how to get to it.
Here is another procedural tutorial on how to remove and replace it.
Assuming that this is an automatic, the NSS is a common problem. A common, cheap and easy ten minute bypass method has been developed to get around the problem or at the least to use to confirm the diagnosis of a failed switch.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Because the car has adaptive technology, it may take a while to reset and adjust to the new, cleaner and better conditions than those to which it had previously adapted.
Did you change the cap and rotor? if the plugs needed replacement, likely they do too
Possible other causes include:
loose or corroded connections to any electrical component you disturbed (make a checklist and tick them all off as you check them);
mis-reinstallation of any F.I. part disturbed(checklist again)
obstructed water flow through the AIC valve;
improper voltage output from the AIC valve (for LH 2.4 systems, should output 8 volt at idle, dropping as load increases; for LH 2.4.2 system output 7 volt at idle etc; testing between terminals)33 and 17 at disconnected LH connector;
possible problem with MAF.
Hope this helps
Posted on May 30, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Usually answered in minutes!