You can release the pressure from the caliper by using the bleeder valve, but it is not likely to be the issue, if the piston in the caliper is not centered correctly or is over extended then it is physically stuck. The cylinder and piston in the caliper might need to be replaced if they are scored or damaged.
It sounds like you or you had someone replace your brakes without greasing the brake rods and other parts. most likely it's the rods need to be cleaned with a wire brush then greased. you'll have to take them back apart.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ray_6d6dc1dfa6f18dc1
First off we have no idea what you are attempting.
nor why , nor how you got to this point.
just doing caliper service. pads?
found this just doing an inspection.
found that when driving braked pulled>? oops...
or ? what?
doing a bleeding purge , on the system and found this>?
changing a tire and found it locked up.
context matters, none given just caliper stuck.
lacking a clear story, ill pretend you said
im just changing pads brakes worked ok, before.
step one for me is rotor inpections
1: warped or cracked. very dangerous.
2: leaks.
3: doing step3 in FSM, is too hard or impossible.
front are rotor. rears are drum.
have ABS option? Matters.?????????????????
seized caliper piston. , with bleed open or not?
abs parts seized, bleed cures it?
MC not retracting.100% (this fail blocks its internal vents, and is crazy dangerous.
the bleed will not release it?, if not released now the caliper piston is seized, BF hammer time.?
to get it free and caliper off then replace it.
The pistons when old if allowed to go too far out
(eg, horrid worn pads) can stick.
that is because the piston lands on a corroded or gummed up section of the bore.
we never allow them to do that.
i hit the caliper with dead blow hammer or rubber mallet.
then the rotor frees up.
then caliper off, then compress the piston like the FSM book tell you do do.
then install pads,
YJ jeep
as seen below, posted 100s of times, this...
a free book
RTM then do the steps there... a win.
chapter 5.
page 24 is front disc work, no lack of facts there.
id bet you skipped step 3 , there with the C-clamp
this is a 100%free book: it's not fake it real.
read it and win."online repair manuals" see that?
http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
step3, not clear?
if step 3 fails the caliper is stuck
if the bleed causes(open) cause step 3 to succeed
then the upstream parts are bad.
if not caliper is toast (rusted inside #1 cause)
the upsteam , hose collapsed inside.
ABS stuck.
MC stuck, easy to find, allare, ask. not typing brakes 101 here.
see it?
To check calipers or the brake hose. Release the bleeder valve. If the calipers release, replace the brake hose. If it doesn't, replace the caliper. I do both the caliper and hose, when the caliper is bad. Brad has a good point also. Over extended calipers will lock up, best to replace them.
always,
if calibers are bad,up front.
try Raybestos rebuilds at NAPA (L and R)
with new hoses on both sides
always do a whole axle so they are all equal.
and lasts same time, full service life,
no need to repeat other side in next month.
also I purge a full quart of dot3/4 through the whole system. per the fsm methods. 4 corners.
for sure read ABS pages if you have ABS.
and not guess.
Yeah, I'm doing it now.. Since you all bashed me so hard a couple weeks ago. I always use OE parts at home. I can't control what they buy at work. But old dogs can learn, I flush the system.
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