Vehicle shimmies when brakes are applied

Hi,
Could be tires need balanced. If they were run low on air, they could be worn and need replaced.

Also, front end suspension may need replaced: Struts/shocks, tie rods, ball joints, bushings. A shop can ID these parts to fix.

GL,
Td

The dealer is not going to replace something if they can not prove to the company the part is defective. The company won't pay the warranty claim.
A bent axle was my next guess. A garage could find out by using the same dial indicator used to check for a bent rim.
The dial gauge is placed against the shaft and the wheel is turned, if the axle is bent the dial will move.
I don't know what Road Forced balanced means, but most balancing machines duplicate road speed of about 30MPH. So a tire or wheel can balance ok on a machine but still have a vibration at speeds above 30 or 40mph. The easiest way to make sure is move the front tires to the back and see if the vibration travels too.
If you are describing the problem correctly, it almost has to be in the transmission, the axles, or the wheels. There is a slight chance a strut or strut mount could be faulty and allowing a small bounce to be amplified.

Brake rotors are "out of round" best thing is get them machined at a brake shop,they are fairly cheap to replace but new ones will do the same thing soon.

Take the car back and have the tires re-balanced. Also have the front brake rotors checked to see if they are warped. If your front rotors are warped it will give you a shimmying effect when you apply the brakes coming to a stop. If they are warped you can either have them "turned" to bring them true again, but sometimes the rotors are inexpensive enough to just replace because even though you turn them there is a chance they will warp again in a few days.

If your tires were not properly balanced then it will cause that. Also, if your rotors are warped then icould cause this to happen. YOu would also notice it when braking if rotors are warped.

If it shimmies with the brakes applied, it's a rotor problem....but like you say, it shimmies just at a certain speed with no brakes applied, check tires for out-of-roundness. If they look ok, you are looking at a balance problem with the tires.

FIRST THING THAT IS COMMON TO A BAD TIRE...SWAP FRONT AND BACK TIRES AND SEE IF THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY

1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck !

Balance your wheels at a good shop. Have the tires checked for out of round/side wear. Are there any sidewall bubbles?

You could have a problem with the wheels themselves...but it is rare.