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Should the solenoid have increasing voltage across the main terminals, 9.0vdc to 30vdc. Master switch in tow, key switch off.

2007 Yamaha YDRE Golf car will only move 4 forward or reverse.

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Vernon Taylor

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My answer is I don't know regarding golf carts but generally a designer would arrange for a solenoid to be actuated by as constant a voltage as possible, especially if it is to be engaged for long periods. That is the only method to ensure consistent operation without danger of overheating. This is assuming the available voltage energises the soleniod.
I would expect the voltage across the main terminals would also be expected to be fairly constant so a predictable consistent performance can be provided over a long life.

You really need to consult a repair manual/wiring diagram. As a complete uninitiated golf cart layman I would expect the main solenoid switch to be switching the battery voltage which would then supply the speed and direction control board. I could be worng though!

Posted on May 02, 2016


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Where is the starter relay located on a 1996 saturn sl1

Does not have a starter relay , When turning to key to start ,the ignition switch sends battery voltage through the park neutral safety switch ,for automatic transmissions or the clutch switch for manual trans . right to the starter solenoid . If you have a automatic trans try putting the gear selector into neutral . an see if it starts then . Have someone try an start it while you check for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal . If it has Battery voltage at the S terminal ,voltage drop test the main B+ cable to the starter .
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Do you know how to do electrical testing ? Using a wiring diagram an a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter . Reading how the starter works in a factory service repair manual would be a good first start . Doesn't work like vehicles back in the day , turning the key ,sending a direct voltage to the S terminal on the starter solenoid .
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Moving the ignition switch to the START position signals the body control module (BCM) that engine crank has been requested. The BCM verifies that theft is not active and sends a serial data message to the powertrain control module (PCM) requesting engine start. The BCM also energizes the RUN/CRANK RELAY. When the RUN/CRANK RELAY switch side closes, and the vehicle is in Park/Neutral or with the clutch fully depressed, if equipped, supply voltage is applied to the PCM CNTRL relay coil. The PCM verifies the transmission is in Park/Neutral or if the clutch is fully depressed, if equipped. The PCM will then ground the control circuit of the PCM CNTRL relay, closing the switch suppling voltage to the starter solenoid. On some vehicles the starter will continue to crank the engine with the key released until it starts, the crank command has timed out to prevent excessive heat build up in the starter circuitry or the PCM receives an engine run flag.
Your best bet ,take it ,have it towed to the dealer .

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Click no start is typically a bad battery, bad starter, bad solenoid or loose dirty battery connections. But seems you have covered those items. Have you checked you negative battery cable where it attaches to the frame and motor? Use multi meter and check from positive of battery to the motor(block) for 12 volts. Also do this while turning key to start position. If voltage drops out when doing this double check battery voltage and all connections. If it does not drop then check the solenoid wire coming from ignition. When key in start position you should have a good twelve volts. If you you do then test the main leads hooked to solenoid for power. If solenoid wire from ignition has less than 12 volts double check connections at battery and also test the clutch pedal switch.

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I have a question. If yor mower want turn over all you hear when you turn the key is the volt meter click. There is fire from battery to solenoid but on the other side of solenoid going to the starter no...

Hello Lynn,

Sounds like you have a problem on the key controlled side, so:

1. Power from the battery to the key switch? 6V or 12V I would guess.
2. With the key in the "Start" position, have you got voltage to the thin wire/small terminal on the solenoid?
3. Do you have a good ground from the starter motor to the chassis?
If all the above checks out then the control circuit for the starter should all be working A-OK & when you turn the key to the "Start" position you should be getting a good, strong "Click" from the solenoid.

So - on the starter circuit:

1. The HD cable feeding the solenoid should always have battery voltage on it?
2. When you operate the key you should hear the solenoid "Click" and the voltage from the HD feed cable should now be connected to the other HD terminal on the solenoid (these are the two you are shorting out with your screw driver to get the motor to turn the engine over).
3. If the solenoid is "Clicking" when you operate the key & the voltage from the main supply cable is being passed to the second HD terminal, but the motor is not operating, then you need to check your ground cable.

Hopefully by now you will have found & fixed the problem :)

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Needles on dash guages (temp,fuel,speed) chatter or vibrate on their lower limit pins when the ignition switch is turned on or the engine is started. After about 30 seconds the needles move to their normal...

Disconnecting the leads from the solenoid,avtivating the switch, and reading 12V is normal because you are not reading anything but the signal applied to the solenoid.You need to attach the leads and THEN activate the switch and read the voltage across the terminals.12V would mean the solenoid is good because a voltage reading is a DIFFERENCE of electrical potential.If you have the leads attached and read 0V,there is no difference of electrical potential meaning there is actually 12V on both sides and the solenoid is not absorbing/using the power like it should be.If you simply read the 2 terminals on your battery it would read 12V,likely higher because a good battery will usually read close to 13V.A bad battery may read as high as 11.8V.As for the guages,it may also be that the battery is low if it has never been changed.The average life of an alkaline car battery is about 6 years.If yours was made and sold in 2000 like they like to do these days,the battery may have been changed once and is starting to be borderline.With the car off,no keys,nothing,read across your battery terminals and please let me know what you find. gmccarthy 86 hotmail

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Our 95 xj6 electronically dead. ignition switch dead? new battery ok. but auto won't crank... We just towed it home haven't done nothing but try to jump it.

Check the voltage at the control terminal on the starter solenoid when you turn the ignition switch to start position. If you don't get anything, it's the ignition switch, a fuse or fusible link in the ignition circuit, or an open cable from the battery to the starter. If you get low or erratic voltage readings, check the battery terminal on the solenoid to see if you have the same readings. If you do, check the battery cable for corrosion or poor connections at each end. If you have full voltage there, the solenoid is bad.

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sounds like you are hooking up the starter wrong. the positive goes to the starter main terminal from the battery. the ignition wire goes to the s on the solenoid, which activates 12 volts when the ignition switch is turned on which causes a magnetic field
inside the solenoid and joins the connectors
in the solenoid to the main positive wire from the
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'97 subaru legacy L,AWD wagon, 2.2L, auto trans.

Do you hear a 'click' when the key is turned to start? Have someone try the key while you listen under the hood. It should be the starter solenoid clicking. You need either a test light or voltmeter to test further. One large terminal on the solenoid has the large wire from the battery positive, and should always show voltage/light at all times. Test the other side of the solenoid (large terminal) that is connected to the terminal on the starter motor. It should show light/voltage when the key is turned. If it doesn't, the solenoid must be replaced. If it does show light/voltage, then the starter motor is defective (probably brushes). If you get no click when turning the key, test the small terminal on the solenoid, you should see a voltage/light change when the key is turned. If you see a change, but no click, the solenoid coil is open or the case of the solenoid is not grounding where it is mounted. Try loosening the mounting and re-tighten. If no help, replace the solenoid. If you see no change at the small terminal, remove the wire from it and using a spare piece of wire, touch the small terminal to, first, the large terminal that the battery is connected to, then to the the mounting bolt for the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, the starter should operate with one of these two tests. In that case, the starter position of key switch is open--replace the ignition switch.

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1 Answer

Starter won't turn over,I shorted selenoid with screwdriver and it kicked in selenoid and started,,ok bad selonoid,,I just replaced with new starter and selonoid,,still won't kick seloniod in,,shorting...

That wire may be coming from a relay so you may need a service manual to find which one it is.
BTW, to save frying all of your screwdrivers, applying 12 volts for a moment to the terminal with the smaller gauge wire will cause the solenoid to operate as it was designed. Shorting across the main solenoid terminals lets ~ 100-200 amps flow through your screwdriver which isn't even a very good conductor.
Even a light clip lead to the coil terminal of the solenoid could handle the lower current that flows there.
For purposes of doing several different engine tasks, I made up a momentary pushbutton switch contraption housed in a plastic film canister, put 6' wires and heavy clips on it so I could 'jiggle' an engine into the next cycle.    

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