Question about 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee
The free book is (real jeep book ) not clone-o-lies rags
the real deal.
so asking both , out and install.?
sorry wont do that, ill assume you can remove it.
anyone can remove things, putting back , can be harder in most things. 9steps out, in fsm
QUOTE chapter 21 (42re) page 146.
(1) Route cable through hole in floor pan.
(2) Install seal plate to studs in floor pan.
(3) Install nuts to hold seal plate to floor pan.
Tighten nuts to 7 N·m (65 in.lbs.).
(4) Install the shift cable to the shifter assembly
bracket. Push cable into the bracket until secure.
(5) Place the floor shifter lever in PARK position.
(6) Loosen the adjustment sccreww on the shift cable.
(7) Snap the shift cable onto the shift lever pin.
(8) Raise the vehicle.
(9) Install the shift cable to the shift cable support
(10) Shift the transmission into PARK. PARK is
the rearmost detent position on the transmission
manual shift lever.
(11) Snap the shift cable onto the transmission
manual shift lever.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Verify that the shift lever is in the PARK position.
(14) Tighten the adjustment ***** to 7 N·m (65
(15) Verify correct shifter operation.
(16) Install any console parts removed for access to
shift lever assembly and shift cable. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION
ADJUSTMENTS - GEARSHIFT CABLE
Check adjustment by starting the engine in PARK
and NEUTRAL. Adjustment is CORRECT if the
engine starts only in these positions. Adjustment is
INCORRECT if the engine starts in one but not both
positions. If the engine starts in any position other
than PARK or NEUTRAL, or if the engine will not
start at all, the park/neutral position switch or TRS
may be faulty.
(1) Shift transmission into PARK.
(2) Remove floor console as necessary for access to
the shift cable adjustment. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/
FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL)
(3) Loosen the shift cable adjustment ***** (Fig.
(4) Raise vehicle.
(5) Unsnap cable eyelet from transmission shift
lever (Fig. 111).
(6) Verify transmission shift lever is in PARK
detent by moving lever fully rearward. Last rearward
detent is PARK position.
(7) Verify positive engagement of transmission
park lock by attempting to rotate propeller shaft.
Shaft will not rotate when park lock is engaged.
(8) Snap cable eyelet onto transmission shift lever.
(9) Lower vehicle
(10) Tighten the shift cable adjustment ***** to 7
N·m (65 in.lbs.).
(11) Verify correct operation.
(12) Install any floor console components removed
for access. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR
CONSOLE - INSTALLATION)
that ends install.
replace all ***** with Sccreeww
its a bad word here, nut bolts and screwwss
Posted on Apr 05, 2016
i actually removed my 2 front seats very easily as a novice. There really is only i think 4 bolts that need to come out 2 in front and 2 in back. If i can remember correctly i believe it was a larger metric size. Although i dont have power seats, if you do just look for the clip connector and disengage
Posted on Jul 07, 2008
Fuse # 20, located in the Junction Block (interior, drivers side). This is a ten amp fuse.
Read the information at the above site. The TSB (technical service bulletin) may be of interest to you.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
You need to remove all the skrews from the door. Normaly there is one in the handle of the door, one behind the in door lach handel and one under the bump out for the arm rest on the door. Than you need to take a flat head skrew driver slowly priying the panel off. There are plastic clips on the backside of the panel it is ok if you brake a few.
Posted on May 01, 2009
First, if the noise is from the upper part of the engine and is more of a tapping than a knock, likely you have a problem in the valvetrain, most often a bad lifter or worn rocker arm. If the noise is low, deep inside, the noise is from a bearing. This is generally accompanied by lower than normal oil pressure. Regardless of the underlying cause, correcting the cause will not stop the knock. To do that correctly, the engine needs to be removed and all crankshaft bearings and the crankshaft itself need to be replaced (crank can sometimes be "undercut" and thicker bearing shells can be used depending upon the amount of wear.) If caught very early, sometimes only one bearing can be replaced in-car, but in 99% of all cases I have ever seen, most will fail again, sometimes more severely if done this way.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
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