Have to know what was serviced to see if this is relevant to the problem. Grinding automatically goes to oil drained and you engine is about to seize up. More info will help on this though.
SOURCE: 1999 hyundai elantra starting problems
remove the starter motor and check for damage/wear on the teeth of the starter motor and the ring gear teeth on the flywheel.turn the engine by hand while checking the ring gear so as to check the condition all the way around.hope this helps
SOURCE: Starting noise
http://www.2carpros.com/first_things/clicking_sound_while_driving.htm
i dont really know what is your problem but i have found the most closest/nearest possible solution to your problem.pls check this site and i hope i was able to help you solve your problem. take care.
SOURCE: Brakes are making loud grinding noise when slowing down to stop or on an incline
Ok, it could be a few things, 1. bad break caliper. 2. if you have ceramic breaks, it could be a cracked brake pad, and if they are not ceramic they can still be cracked. 3. if you drive a lot then it could be that you need new breaks again.. 4. also have your back breaks checked along with the front ones..
SOURCE: 2006 f250 diesel....crank and crank
The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The
injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and
it will create these symptoms.
When you depress the brake it
sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it
predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high
pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building
pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High
Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster
because it is thinner.
You may have a leak around the pump area
which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that
controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the
turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover.
You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are
damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched
through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is
usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous
repair or something is coming apart inside.
Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters.
Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere
around 55psi on acceleration.
Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is
mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the
front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key
on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running,
then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40
in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia
switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout
and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...
Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.
Keep us updated.
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