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I can't remove a rubber fuel line with a strange metal fitting on it connecting it to one of the metal fuel lines.
After replacing the fuel filter on my truck, I found that I managed to puncture a small hole one of the rubber hoses going to it. I attempted a temporary patch with duct tape and gorilla glue, but I guess before the glue could dry the gas reduced the glue to a paste. Now I'm attempting to replace the actual hose. I got it off the fuel filter easily enough, but the problem is with the fuel line end. There is some kind of metal clamp on it that I can't remove. Best way to describe it is a short metal tube flared at both ends. Rectangular parts of it have been presses in on the sides of it, to hold the hose I assume. There aren't any screws or anything on it to loosen, best I can tell it was made to not be taken off. It's on the ends of both hoses that connect to the metal fuel lines. Anyone have Any suggestions?
Re: I can't remove a rubber fuel line with a strange...
As far as I can tell you are describing a pressed on clip. The only way off is to cut using a cutting pliers. I BELIEVE YOU ARE DESCIBING A LOW PRESSURE LINE. Just verify it first by calling the parts store or dealer. If so clip it off R/R the hose & install a new gas line w/ a clamp. Good Luck, Frank M
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Are you talking the Fuel Line (Metal) or Hose (Rubber)?
Here are some facts you need to know to work with the OEM fuel
lines.
The threaded fittings used in the fuel system are
a bit strange considering this is a Japanese vehicle. There are two fitting
sizes used: 1/8-28 BSPT (Yes the first one is a British Pipe thread!) and
13mm x 1.5. (The diameter I measured on this fitting is .504, which is larger
than a 12mm fitting (.472), but smaller than a 14mm (.532) This would logically
make it a 13mm. It it NOT a 1/4-BSPT as I had orginally thought.) There appears
to be no such thing as a 13mm compression fitting available for purchase.
If you should find a source for these, PLEASE let me know!
The female threads on the carb inlet, glass fuel filter inlet
and outlet, and the fuel pump inlet and outlet are 1/8-28 BSPT. (So are the
intake manifold small threaded holes and the block holes for the oil pressure
sensor and oil lines. )
There are two thread adapters (Toyota calls these Unions)
used in the Cruiser fuel line system: a straight female 1/8-28 BSPT to 13mm
x 1.5, and a 90 degrees female 1/8-28 BSPT to 13mm x 1.5. The 90 degree fitting
is only used on the fuel pump outlet to adapt the fuel pump to the hard line.
The OEM hard fuel line is 8mm in diameter (.314"). 5/16"
(.312") is close enough in size to not matter much.
OEM soft (rubber or the clear plastic) fuel lines are no
longer available.
Remove the screw from the metal bracket that is holding the fuel filter. It is located right below the battery to the right. To get the quick connect fuel line fittings off. YOU WILL NEED A DISCONNECT TOOL. O'Reillys or Auto Zone should have the tool pack of (6) The small gray one fits the 2001 Sportage. Put the plastic tool under the fuel line fitting and squeeze together. The fuel line will pop off the old filter. To remove the rear fuel line, go under the vehicle and use the tool on the fuel line. There is a rubber hose with 2 quick connect fittings. One end attaches to the filter and the other end attaches to a metal fuel line under vehicle. Remove the fitting that attaches to the metal line since there is no room on the back of filter for the tool to fit. Once you get the whole assembly out of the car.... you can work on getting the fitting off the rear of the old filter. Be very careful not to damage the plastic quick connect fittings! KEEP YOUR FACE CLEAR OF THE FILTER A SMALL AMOUNT OF GAS WILL COME OUT!!!!!
If it is a plastic type, with rubber hose connections, then just a pair of pliers to remove the squeeze clips.
Nowadays most EFI cars have a metal body fuel filter with a "banjo" connection at one end. For this you need a socket wrench or ring spanner the right size.
At the other end is probably a metal fuel line with a compression fitting nut on it, which may be very tight. Here you need a flare nut wrench, which is a ring spanner with a slot to allow it go around the fuel line. Using an open end spanner or adjustable spanner may round off the nut if it is tight.
Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.
Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.
The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.
The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.
The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)
You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.
You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.
Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.
I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.
The fuel filter is located right below the battery to the right. If you intend changing it, here are a few steps to help. Firstly, remove the screw from the metal bracket that is holding the fuel filter. To get the quick connect fuel line fittings off, you need a disconnect tool. I got a pack of 6 at Advance Auto for $12. The small gray one fits the 2001 Sportage.
Put the plastic tool under the fuel line fitting and squeeze together. The fuel line will pop off the old filter. To remove the rear fuel line, I had to go under the vehicle and use the tool on the fuel line. There is a rubber hose with 2 quick connect fittings. One end attaches to the filter and the other end attaches to a metal fuel line under vehicle. Remove the fitting that attaches to the metal line since there is no room on the back of filter for the tool to fit. Once you get the whole assembly out of the car, you can work on getting the fitting off the rear of the old filter. Be very careful not to damage the plastic quick connect fittings!
I'm not real sure but you may need to cut through the line and use rubber fuel line and clamps. I understand it's very difficult. There is a special tool for this that doest really fit in the space. There's 4 metal fingers that hold the fitting together and need to be bent out to re
ove the filter. Not easy! Good luck
The fuel filter will be located above the fuel tank. You will need to remove the front fuel tank strap to change the filter. Make sure you relieve fuel pressure before removing the lines otherwise gas could potentially spray everywhere including all over you! Remove the two lines from the filter (sometimes there is just one) remove the bolt that secures the filter to the tank. Remove the line from the filter to the metal fuel line.
After you install the new one make sure the connection is solid where the plastic line from the filter connects to the metal line. This connection is the one that fails quite often after the filters are replaced!!
Relieve the fuel system pressure. For details regarding this procedure, please refer to Section 5 of this manual.
If not done already, disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Clean both fuel feed pipe connections and the surrounding areas at the in-line fuel filter with a clean rag to avoid possible contamination of the fuel system.
Using a backup wrench, remove the fuel line fittings from the fuel filter.
Either separate the quick-connect fittings or remove the fuel filter mounting screws, then slide the fuel filter out of the mounting bracket.
Discard the fuel line O-rings and replace with new ones during installation.
To install:
Install new O-rings to the fuel line fittings.
Connect the fuel lines to the fuel filter.
Position the filter in the mounting bracket, in the same position it was during removal. Using a backup wrench, tighten the fuel lines to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
Install the fuel filter mounting screws.
Carefully lower the vehicle. Install or tighten the fuel filler cap.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Location of the fuel filter
Unfasten the retaining bracket can make removal of the fuel filter easier
Either use a clean rag or compressed air to clean the surrounding areas of the filter
Use a backup wrench to disconnect the fuel line fittings from the filter
Disengage the quick-connect fittings, then remove the filter from the vehicle
In-line fuel filter mounting and related components
Step 1-Determine type of fuel line to be replaced. Rubber hoses will have clamps on both ends that should be loosened with screw driver. Nylon and steel lines will have a ferrule at both ends removed and replaced using proper size line wrench
Step 2-Using proper size line wrench or screwdriver, loosen fittings by turning counter clockwise. Catch fuel remaining in lines in a gasoline safe container.
Step 3-Remove defective fuel line and install the new line or hose opposite of removing. Take care not to strip or cross-thread fittings as this will cause leaks.
Step 4-Dispose of remaining fuel in an OSHA safe container.
You want to be very careful not to make any sparks while working on this. The obvious is smoking, banging metal tools around, etc. keep cell phones AWAY from the area. Pick up some rubber fuel line from the parts store. Be prepared for some gas leakage, have a plastic pan under the leak. Disconnect the line at the tank, have a piece of new hose ready to push on over the line to as close to the tank as you can, have the end away from the tank plugged up temporarily with a pencil or something that fits snug in it, then remove the rubber hose on the filter, and connect new line from tank to filter, check for leaks, hopefully it is the rubber line you replaced, or the end of the metal line, so the new hose will hopefully cover the corroded leaking area. Clamp and Dry off area and see if you can spot any leaks.
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