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ON Nissan ZD 300 ENGINE I CAN'T GET THE SUMP OFF AFTER REMOVING ALL VISIBLE BOLTS. IT IS MOVING A LITTLE IN FRONT, BUT SEEMS TO BE VERY TIGHT AT THE BACK WHERE IT ATTACHES TO BELL HOUSING
Re: ON Nissan ZD 300 ENGINE I CAN'T GET THE SUMP OFF...
Could be just the gasket or silicone type gasket replacer that was used to seal it to the engine and bell housing. If all the bolts are removed just give it a good pry and it should come
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Step 1-22 ft lbs on all bolts in a crisscross pattern
step 2-59 ft lbs in the exact same crisscross pattern
step 3-Loosen all bolts
step 4-22 ft Lbs
Step 5-46-50.5 ft lbs
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It sounds as though you have missed a bolt/screw somewhere. That's easily done as they can become well hidden by road dirt and grime.
Use a blunt screwdriver to gently try and prise the sump free. Gaskets can stick and hold the sump tight against the housing. Don't force it, otherwise you'll end up damaging the sump.
If it still won't come free .. check for that missed bolt
Whether it's an engine oil pan (called the 'sump'' in the UK) or a transmission oil pan the principle is the same on all vehicles.
1. Drain the oil
2. Remove the bolts holding the sump/pan in place:
The oil drain plug, though depending on your vehicle it may look different: New gasket held in place with sealant
Use a blunt screwdriver -if needed - and prise the oil pan free. remove all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces.
Use a smear of sealant to hold the new gasket in the correct position on the pan - this will hold it in place when you refit the pan.
Push the pan into position and put in a front bolt finger-tight. Then put in a rear bolt finger-tight.
Putting in the bolts finger-tight allows you to gently 'move' the pan if needed to put the bolts in one at a time.
When all bolts are in, tighten them with a wrench/socket. Then check them all again for tightness.
It isn't actually a big job .. more 'messy' because of the oil.
Place a clean flattened cardboard under your car and see if it's leaking out. If it's not dripping oil, check your radiator for the presence of oil using a dye test kit available at NAPA. If there is a leak coming from under your car, try to determine from where it's dripping. Most common is an oil filter that hasn't been tightened properly or leaking oil sump bolt. A 1/4 turn on the oil filter should stop the leak, if its the sump... a new screw washer for the sump bolt will usually cure that. Check around the sump mounting bolts, if a fresh leak is evident, you will need a new sump gasket, don't try to tighten the existing bolts as it make leak worse! Tighten to torque specs. Otherwise, you are burning it up... exhaust smoke should be dark instead of light gray. White smoke indicates a blown head gasket and the oil is getting into the engine.
The filter is located underneath the front exhaust header. It's toward
the left side of the engine as you face the engine with the hood up (the
passenger side of the car).
You can see the filter from the top through the little space between
the header pipes. Stock filters are black. You can also gain access to
the filter from underneath the car by removing the nine or ten 10mm
bolts from the panel aft of the front bumper. The two outboard bolts are
different than the others so take note.
SOUND LIKE STARTER COULD HAVE LOOSE BOLTS OR MISSING A BOLT.THE STARTER PINION IS STICKING.IF BOLTS IS TIGHT NOT MISSING.REMOVE STARTER TAKE IT TO AUTO ZONE OR ADVANCE AUTO.THEY WILL CHECK IT OUT FOR FREE.ALSO TURN OFF RADIO BEFORE REMOVING NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.SO YOU WONT LOSE RADIO CODE.
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