Fan belt went and noticed it had broke the wire to oil pressure sensor, connected wire back up but still get yellow triangle warning light, replaced oil pressure sensor still no good, wire is live and pressure switch working but can't get yellow triangle off, had it reset when car is running and stays off but soon as u turn it off then start it again it comes back on, please help
Testimonial: "Well that didn't work mike, cheers tho"
Add Your Answer
Tips for a great answer:
- Answer the question.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
probably the wire for the oil pressure sender or sensor unit that was not properly fixed in the fitment
However as you did not immediately notify the shop of the problem do not expect any help from them if the motor is damaged especially as you drove it home and not back into the shop
I quote some details from BMW's owners... Symptoms: Dreaded yellow triangle, ABS light, and
CEL on. All other functions (speedo, tach, cruise control, trip
computer, etc) working.
Procedure: Pull the ABS controller out and disconnect it from the wiring
harness. Mine is under a panel to the left of the glove compartment.
Remove the wiring backshell so you can get at the wiring connections on
the back side of the connecting plug (you need to be able to see the
colors of the wires and get a Ohm meter probe on them).
Using a Bentleys Electrical Manual find the connection diagram for the
wheel sensors to the ABS Controller. The pin designators will most
likely be wrong (they were for mine) BUT the color designators for each
of the wires is correct.
Example: Right Rear sensor is connected by two wires, one blue and one blue green.
Connect Ohm meter across these two pins. NOTE: I wound paper clips
around the probes to make a very small probe tip which helps. Write down
the resistance reading. Mine was 3.08k ohms.
Work through the other 3 wheels and write down the resistance readings.
If any of the pairs is open (i.e. infinite resistance) you have a bad
connection between the ABS Controller and the wheel sensor. You can then
remove the affected wheel, unplug the sensor, short out the pins on the
plug (not the wheel sensor part but the chassis wiring part) and if the
ohm meter is still reading open you have a broken cable between the
wheel sensor and the ABS controller. If the cable is good connect the
ohm meter across the wheel sensor itself and if the cable still reads
open you have a bad wheel sensor, replace and retest.
Here is what I found. All wheels read 3.08k ohms except the right rear
which read 4.4M ohms. This sensor was replaced during my rebuild
exercise and it looks like they provided the wrong part. I replaced the
part with a dealer item and retested. 3.08k ohms was read with the new
part. Reconnected everything and the ABS light went out, the yellow
triangle light went out. I used my OBDII computer interface to clear the
CEL light and all is well again.
Total testing/repair time: 2hrs and 35 minutes!
Here is my theory. The "older" ABS Controllers (like mine) use sensors
with the lower reisitance (3.08k ohm) while the newer Controllers use
the higher resistance sensors (4.4M ohm). The part I bought was from a
02 E39! I can return it but I think I will use it to test my 00 528
Additionally, I suggest check charging system (alternator/power module/battery) has a defect that a professional BMW technician should look at, Most probably the alternator is toast.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate
your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about
This could be two unassociated problems; the flickering oil light can indicate that the pressure sensor for the idiot light is failing- this is not uncommon, the other can be a failed temperature sensor sensor on the main radiator.
The low oil pressure condition may also be indicative of a worn engine part or parts.
It would make sense to have the actual oil pressure checked in a shop to see if it is in the normal range which should lay between ~30 & 60 pounds depending on engine RPMs and engine temperature.
The idiot lights trigger at around 4-5 pounds and this is really pretty late for a warning; if the pressure is actually that low, not only lubrication is too little but the cooling effect of the circulating oil is inadequate.
If it was my car, I would replace both sensors before getting too worried.
The cost of these together (parts only) should be well under $50 US.
The usual problems that would give you a delay in the oil warning light going out are...
1. Oil contaminated by fuel, and thin due to fuel injection system problems, and fuel draining into sump.
( How long ago did you last change the oil and filter ? Usually about....1 Yr or 12.OOO Mls)
Wipe oil from engine dip stick on tissue, and smell it for fuel !
Have you noticed you use a lot of fuel lately, and the car blows black smoke from exhaust on hard acceleration ?
2. Oil Warning light transmitter faulty. ( The Most Common !)
3. Oil pump pick up strainer clogged.
4. Oil pump faulty.
5 Oil draining back into the sump from the oil filter.( Faulty check valve )
If I were you, I would change the Oil and Filter, and renew the Oil Warning Light Transmitter, and go from there.
If you have a Master Oil Pressure Guage, fit it to the block when the O/W/ Transmitter is off, and run engine to confirm pressure is there from start up, and what it reads when hot, this will put your mind at ease.
Are you referring to the oil pressure gauge on the dash? If so, that is most likely the oil pressure sending unit having gone bad. The sensor runs about $40 - 50 (at least the last time I had to replace one on that engine). They are not terribly difficult to replace and I believe its a three wire sensor located back side of the engine, on the passenger side area. Its in a kind of tight spot and takes a bit to get it completely screwed out, but it can be done.
When they go bad, they typically will cause the gauge on the dash to read maximum oil pressure. You should be okay to run like that until you can get a new sensor as long as it is reading maximum oil pressure on the gauge and not low or no oil pressure on the gauge.