What is rating of the alternator fuse coming off the positive side of the battery?

take a test light and check your fuses , make sure both sides of the fuse is hot ! check power at alternator if no power gos in no power will come out.

You need to test your charging system circuits at the alternator. (see diagram and instructions)

BLK is the cable to the battery POSITIVE terminal - this is hot at all times.
PINK/BLACK comes from Fuse #5 (15 Amp) in the relay center under the right side of the instrument panel. This wire is hot (battery voltage) with the ignition switch in the RUN, BULB TEST, or START positions.
BROWN comes from your instrument panel and is protected by Fuse #16 (20 Amp) in the instrument panel left side fuse block. This wire will have slightly less than battery voltage with the ignition switch in the RUN, BULB TEST, or START positions.
If any of this is not as described, let me know what you have found and we can continue if needed.

The alternator does not have a fuse, there may be a main system fuse either on the positive terminal on the battery or in the fuse box, rated at at least 60 amps. Describe your problem and let's try work out a solution.

Hi!! I could not find the Plug Terminals ID diagram for this vehicle, but I can give you the order of the wires in the plug, in Position 1 YEL goes to the charging Indicator on Inst. Panel and comes from the left side of Steering Column fuse box, 10A IGN. FUSE. 2 BLK/YEL Comes from the left side of Steering Column fuse box, 7.5A ENGINE FUSE. 3 WHT/BLU Comes from the left side of Engine Compartment fuse link box 40A AMP1 FUSE LINK. WHITE Comes from the left side of Engine Compartment fuse link box 120A ALT FUSE LINK.


I hope this will help. Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

Check your alternator fuse. On Galant's it is part of the positive battery clamp , is a dealer only part, and can run anywhere from $12 to $20. Your battery light will not come on , your alternator is fine, your battery is in good order, but the battery will go dead and kill the car for no apparent reason. If the fuse is not part of the positive battery clamp you will find it in the fuse box under the hood in this case it is a square fuse (60,70,80 amp etc.).

I don't know what type of vehicle, model or year, but it sounds like a blown fusible link. This is not a fuse, but acts like one. They are generally wired in at the starter after the positive cable connection (again I don't know what vehicle). Sometimes they are wired directly off the battery at the positive cable. On the trucks they can be at the firewall R/S relay center. Regardless, most fuse panels, alternators and cooling fans are controlled by a fusible link. By you jumpering the fuse boxes you are just taking place of the blown link. They are usually in-line (mostly large red positive wires. They can be a black bulge in the wire or just covered with black heat shrink. Follow all the leads from the battery and locate them. Test after the fusible link for power (use a test light if availible).

check altenator connections,is belt slipping? check your fuses also the ones under hood in black box

I do not know about that,but make sure the large wire on the alternator is going to the positive cable on the battery.

FUSES ON THE DRIVER SIDE UNDER INSTRUMENT PANEL.CHECK FUSE LINKS YOU HAVE IN LINE FUSE LINK ON THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE. ALSO POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.

Sounds like you have a bad alternator. but first , check the battery connection o the positive side where the cables overlap eachother. they like to corrode in between the two cables and do just what your saying. but it really sounds like you need an alternator. have someone check the red wire on the back of the alternator and see if there is power there al the time- should be. if so replace the alternator, i have had many new or not vary old one fail. - good luck