There is a open ended pipe that runs above engine oil intake, the other end has a hose connected to it? mines leaking fluid thinking gas

As Steve, (the answer above), said, water pump or hoses. Check each hose one at a time. If the engine is still hot wipe each hose until dry then leave things to cool down. When cold, Re-check each hose carefully. Look for a hose that has become wet again. Check the ends where the clamps are fitted as well. One could be loose.
One final test is fill the coolant reservoir, leave the hood open and start the engine. Let the engine get up to working temperature so the thermostat opens. CAREFULLY look at the hoses and connectors to see if the leak is visible when the system is pressurised. This should also give you a clue as to whether it is the water pump. The pump leak will be on the engine and not from a hose.

Your engine code (DTC P0442 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Small Leak Detected ) should not have anything to do with a ticking sound. The evaporative system keeps you from having a gas smell under the hood and in the car.

As far as ticking goes ... it could be many things. You are correct, it could be lifters. If you take a long screwdriver and with the engine running place the handle end against your ear and touch the blade end to the top of the valve cover the screwdriver will act as a stethescope. If the ticking gets a lot louder somewhere on the valve cover then yes, you have a lifter making noise. If the motor ran really low on oil, and then one or more lifters started ticking you can try running about a half quart of transmission fluid in the oil for about 15 minutes at ididle while gently changing the rpms between idle and about 2500 to see if it loosens up the lifter(s). Change the oil after you do this.

To test the PCV valve, with the engine running pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover (leave it attached to the vaccuum hose) and place the tip of your finger against the now exposed tip of the PCV valve. It should make a snapping noise and **** your finger against the opening in the valve. If it does not, then make sure the vaccuum hose does not have a leak in it. If the hose is good, shut the car off, remove the valve from the vaccuum hose, and use some carburetor spray and clean it out. I clean mine each time I change the spark plugs. If the valve is stuck or clogged this could be causing the oil pooiing problem in the air intake tube you describe from excessive crankcase pressure.

If you still have not found the ticking noise, it could also be in the lower end of the motor. This is the only "bad" place for it to be out of what I have described. If it is a lifter and the noise is not really loud, it is not dangerous to drive.

blown head gasket or oil valve guides are shot or your piston rings could be damaged becouse your oil is bypassing the rings getting into the throttle body intake or the head gasket is blown and the oil is bypassing into the intake as well so you might as well do a engine overall rebuild and replace with new parts so if you are going to do the top end you might as well for a few dollars more do the bottom end as well or you can replace the engine with one that dont have leaks or problems just make sure if you are to get another engine make sure it runs and theres no oil smell or to much gas smell from the end of the exeust pipe just check that and look for any blue smoke or black smoke and not to grey of a smoke ok if there is water dripping out slow drip its a great running engine like its brand new that means it was well taking care of no abuse on the engine if you see water dripping from the end of the exoust pipe ok well i hope i had help you out with your question problems i do know these things and have great holidays as well !

try the scrapyard and look at one in their ,or ask a local owner that is just parking up in a supermarket and look at theirs .lots of different ways to overcome this problem but if the pipe has beeen disconnected its because the heater matrix is no doubt leaking

Hi. Your power steering pump hoses are closed looped. They run from the pump assembly to the reservoir.They do not run to any of your oil lines. Now, with that said, i would recommend to inspect your assembly for possible leaks. This is a high pressure setup that will produce leaks during hose or clamp failure. The reservoir can crack as well. This will cause fluid to leaks on the engine block or exhaust manifold, thus, causing the white smoke or burn off affect. Use the procedure below to inspect for possible loose hoses or compromised pump seals and reservoir issues.



Once you have staged your vehicle in a safe place, open the hood and locate your power steering system on your vehicle. The easiest way is to follow the part of the steering column assembly that goes through the firewall. Follow the components connected to the steering column all the way to the wheel assemblies and hoses connected to the power steering pump and reservoir. Attempt to scrub wet and dirty components around the steering system, using shop rags if the leak source is not readily apparent. Now,start the engine, rotating the steering wheel all the way from left to right several times to increase system pressure in the pump and hoses. Turn off the engine and inspect the system from the engine compartment, using a flashlight preferably. In some cases, you might have to wait one or two days for the leak to reveal itself . Next, check around the power steering pump, for possible cracks. If you find fluid around the pump case, the case is damaged and should be replaced. Some pumps are equipped with internal seals that may be replaced when necessary. Also, look around the reservoir and make sure it is in good condition. A cracked reservoir must be replaced as well.

Now, look around all fittings and hoses. A loose fitting cannot contain the high pressure in the system. Tighten clamps using a Phillips or flathead screwdriver or ratchet and socket, depending on the type of fitting or clamp used in your system. Additionally, check along the hoses for cuts. If possible, run your fingers along the length of the hose to find hidden wet spots. A hose leaking somewhere along the middle will have to be replaced. If the gash is very close to the end of the hose, you might be able to cut off the damaged part and reconnect the hose to the component. You will also need to Check the metal lines connecting the steering gear assembly to other components. A ruptured metal line must be replaced.

Lastly; Inspect completely around the rubber boots located between the ends of the steering gear assembly and the arms linking the assembly to the wheels. If fluid is leaking at either end, then the seals at the ends of the steering gear assembly will need to be replaced. If necessary, raise the front end of the vehicle using a floor jack and support it on jack stands or ramps. Once the vehicle is safely supported, inspect the steering gear assembly more closely to see if it is in good or bad condition . Make sure you check all the ares above for possible leaks or loose connections before replacing the entire pump.

If the leak is back there? sounds like an intake gasket or head gasket if you ruled out the hoses

Make sure you don not run low on transmission fluid in your transmission. Low transmission fluid will cost you a new transmission. You have the transmission line that connects to the upper passenger side or the radiator and the lower passenger side of the radiator. Determine which line has gone bad and you can buy a rubber transmission line hose at most Auto Parts store like Parts Source. Cut off out the section with a pipe cutter that has corroded through and replace with the transmission hose. Make sure you tell them it's a transmission line hose your looking for and don't use any other hose and double clamp with a compression clamps at ether end. If it's the connection at the radiator that has gone bad, replace that end and do that same as you would to sectioning off the the corroded line and try not to have more then 3 inches of repaired section. What ever you do, do not add any stop leak, this will create problems with the shift solenoids and check valves in your valve body in the transmission causing a transmission replacement soon after adding. Good luck and keep me posted.

There are several areas of possible leakage. One is the hose and plastic outlet from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. The hose runs low, underneath the alternator. The plastic outlet cracks, the hose gets old, the clamps on the hose can also be loose. The replacement outlet from the dealer is steel, not plastic.
Another possibility for leakage is on the driver's side of the intake manifold. Underneath the air inlet is a metal cover on the end of the intake manifold. This covers the coolant passages at the end of the intake. Mine was oozing antifreeze..you don't have to pull the intake to replace this.
The other place for leaks is the intake itself..requiring removal of the intake. I've done this...I don't think it is that bad of a job. However, if you put in a new intake, don't forget to put in a pcv valve..it fits under a small cover at the right rear of the intake manifold.

it could be the freeze plugs. that can be expensive.

dont know of any head gasket concerns, usually when the intake manifold leaks it either split and pours out or the heater hose fittings crack and leak. Check the hose connections at the intake and make sure none of the hose clamps have cracked and are leaking