Which direction do I turn the clutch adjusting rod to raise (come up away from the floorboard) the clutch engagement point? It presently "catches" too close to the floor. Thank you!

check the slave cylinder adjustment as normally there is no adjustment on the piston rod
There should be about 1/4 " free play between rod and throw out arm
the pivot bolt for the throw out arm should never be adjusted
what you have indicates air in the system or a faulty clutch master cylinder
you can get the clutch slipping indication if the compensating port in the master cylinder is blocked which holds the fluid in the system and keeps the clutch from fulling engaging
no resistance is air in the system and that can be from a faulty master cylinder

Clutches can be adjusted. But usually that is to compensate for the wear that it undergoes. U adjust it to bring the engagement point up but apparently you are used to it all the way down and have gotten accustomed to it. U replaced the clutch because it was all the way down.

Anyway, what you need to do is get used to the new clutch. What I did to get better control was to put the heel of my left foot on the floorboard and pivot my left foot up and down on the clutch pedal. Gives you much better control of the pedal and after a while it will be automatic with no hassles. Try it.

Did you take all the adjustment out that the mechanic adjusted into the push rod? With a new master cylinder, it may be adjusted so far out that the clutch is always disengaged. Try adjusting the push rod back to its initial setting.

Yes, there is an adjustment that would have the effect of shifting the point at which the clutch engages, BUT, that would not correct what appears to be your problem. As the clutch wears, the point at which it engages shifts, moving further outward until it will slip even though the pedal is completely out. I suspect that your clutch is nearing its end of life.Toyotas are such reliable beasts however, it would make sense to replace the clutch. I replaced mine at 212,000 miles, and in now has 289,500 miles and is still going strong. Hope this helps. Dano

have you replaced your fly wheel and release bearing when you changed your clutch disc?

if yes, then replace your transmission fluid.
also, if you know hot to adjust your clutch release, adjust it. adjust it in a way that you need to draw back your clutch pedal a little higher for the clutch to complete engage.

here are some ways to adjust your clutch.

1. for clutch using clutch cable. open your hood, locate for the transmision, and there you can see a cable that connects the transmision and the clutch pedal. loosen in up a little.
2. for hydrovac clutch with self correcting features. just pull your clutch pedal away from the floor for a few seconds and its done.
3. for hyrovac without self correction. manually adjust the push rod (metal rod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master)

you should buy a self adjusting clutch, you can set the clutch yourself, to catch right away,or, a couple of inches of play, It could also be your clutchplate, not cheap! I hope this helps you in some way

rod activates master clutch cyl and has lost the seals in the master-fluid is migrating back on rod

Get your face near the floorboard, and look at the clutch pedal. Now look at what is connected to it that runs through the body and down toward the tranny. If this rod moves in and out of its hole when you move pedal...

...then stick your head under vehicle and find where this rod comes out. There is another rod hooked to it that actuates the clutch. One of these has likely fallen off, due to a worn rod and bushing. Sometimes they are so worn, they must be replaced. If you catch it in time, you can replace the plastic bushing and/or just snap it back together. Sounds like your linkage has come apart between pedal and clutch. Rod has some adjustment, but only to a point.

Not positive about Hyundai,but most all import clutch systems that use hydraulics do have a clutch adjustment up under the dash.Get on the driver side floorboard with a light,lay on the floorboard looking UP...under the dash.Locate the clutch pedal,now track it UP to where you see a rod coming from the firewall back to the clutch pedal.This is the rod that actuates the clutch master cylinder.Track it back to the cutch pedal,and there should be threads on the end closest to the pedal.There should also be a jam nut,usually either 12mm or 14 mm.Loosen the jam nut,and back it off completely.Now adjust the rod in,towards the clutch pedal if you desire an engagement point higher on the clutch pedal travel.If you want the engagement point closer to the floorboards,adjust the rod out,towards the firewall.Good luck and rememeber to rate this solution.

If the clutch is fairly new,hopefully it hasn't been damaged.Under the dash is an adjustment for the clutch.You have to get in the car with your back on the floorboard looking up with a light.Locate the clutch pedal and follow it up to where it is mounted under the dash.Look forward to the firewall and you will see a gold colored rod coming back from the firewall,and attach to the clutch pedal.Where the rod is threaded,close to the clutch pedal,is a jam nut,and it will be either 12mm or 14 mm in size.Loosen the jam nut and back it off several threads.Now turn the gold rod inwards towards the rear of the car,and that should make the clutch engagement point lower on the clutch pedal travel,or closer to the floor,and should make the clutch stop slipping,unless,of course,it is damaged beyond adjustment,and needs to be replaced.This is the adjustment procedure for the clutch when a new one is installed,and once a year,after that.