At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
What would be indication of a loose timing belt or failed tensioner?
Engine is missing under load. Runs smooth at idle, runs smooth when applying gas in nuetral. It is standard shift, the misfire always occurs when you reach torque/rpm where needing to shift from 3rd to 4th gear only. Runs fine otherwise. You can baby it and prevent the misfire.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Timing belts last a 100,000 miles easy. Even the owner's manuals will
generally state the replacement interval for a timing belt or
serpentine belt to be over 100k 5 years. It is just inspections up till
then.
The car is stalling due to poor ignition/ idling settings and so you need to check the fuel settings, the plugs and the timing. Also the idle speed must be put up after the enigne is warm.
The belt tensioner keeps the belt tight inside each accessory pulley while the engine is running. The tensioner is made up of a spring-loaded arm. If the spring inside of the tensioner becomes loose then it will not be able to hold the belt properly.And belt will also get loose.The belt tensioner is on the engine underneath the alternator. Its fitted by bolt.To loose the belt you will need drive socket and breaker bar .Turn the breaker bar counterclockwise to release tension from the belt.Remove the mounting bolt at the top center of the tensioner arm.The tensioner arm is loose and will easily come out.If you in-case are to replace the tensioner then place the new tensioner in same place and tighten the bolt which you removed.Before removing or moving the belt check the position of the belt passing from each pulley.so that when you fit the parts there is no problem in fitting the parts. After its done.Start the engine and see that belt and tensioner runs freely and belt moving from each pulley smoothly.-------------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
It sounds to me like a loose drive belt. As it slips on one pulley and is able to pull on another then nothing can rotate in sync, causing basically a "mismatch" if you will in how all of the components of the engine as a whole is operating together. A worn belt and/or tensioner pulley can cause this. Check all of your belts for wear by looking at both sides of the belt for cracks spaced closer than 2" together, frayed edges or cracking deeper than approximately a 1/4 of the belt thickness. On any car there will be at least one tensioner pulley, I believe yours has two. They are spring loaded and can wear out as well and allow less belt tension. You can check this by observing all of the pulleys while running, and watch for excessive bounce or wobble. There will be two hash marks on the spring housing that the pulleys are mounted to, they represent the minimum and maximum amount of pulley travel. If you find no problem with these nor excessive belt wear, move your attention to your other pulleys on the engine. Another pulley problem that can occur is with the idler pulleys. These are not spring loaded and thus are stationary, they have bearings that also can wear out. That can allow the pulley to wobble. You may not be able to see this at idle speed so you may have to get assistance with the accelerator; or open the throttle by hand.
Replacing a belt or pulley is not difficult with the proper tools and preparation. A long wrench with the proper size for the bolt on the tensioner pulley(s) is all that is needed to move the pulley far enough to slip the belt back off and another on. The belt routing diagram is on a sticker mounted under the hood. In the instance it is missing, take a photo for your reference. Keep the old belt for the part number or refer to your manual.
could be just something as simple as the idler/tension pulley damper. Take a look at the belt and pulleys when the car is idling. When normal everything runs relatively smoothly. Identify the tensioner pulley, it has a smooth track edge and the belt runs around it with its back to it (the v belt 'face' runs over driven pulleys) and the bolt in the middle of the pulley remains stationary (it does not spin with the pulley as with others). If this pulley is spring loaded to apply tension to the v belt. If it shimmying around and the sound coincides with its action it is most likely that the damper, which normally smooths out vibration, needs to be examined. I recently sorted a car that was chattering quite loudly and all that was wrong was that the rubber bushing on the damper end had split and this was causing it it rattle.
With regards to the belt, if the back of the belt is glazed and the front is cracked (you will see this plainly where it is exposed over the tensioner pulley) then it would be a good time to change it. They are not expensive and only take a few minutes to swap out.
Have a mechanic give it a diagnostic look and for him to give an opinion. My guess is that the engine light is down to a duff oxygen sensor but without more details this is no more than just a guess.
Well, it sounds more like a timing belt issue than a coil pack. When you have gas applied and the engine running a little higher than idle RPM it seems fine because the belt is under tension and holding the timing when you back off the gas the belt gets loose and it runs like it is out of time. If it runs fine at first and starts acting up when it gets warm it could be the coil pack but I would check the timing and see if it is erradict when idling to make sure you don't have a timing belt issue. If that breaks while you are driving you will have to repair the head as well as replace the timing belt.
Before changing you pcm try cleaning your egr valve. remove the valve and see if its stuck in the open position if so use a small pick to clean around the spring.
either the timing belt is going and that rarely fixes itself.... or buy a couple bottles of gasline antifreeze and put it in your gas tank....other possibility is coil pack.... start the motor up at night and see if you see any arcing from the ignition.
×