Have good fuel pressure, spark,and still will not sta

IS THIS A RUBBER CAM BELT DRIVE, IF YES IT IS BAD
rs415 ,NO SWIFTS IN USA 2007
M15A 4-cyl 1.5 (BUT IS CHAIN CAM)
SO IF COMPRESSION AND SPARK ARE GOOD?

THEN WE DO TEST FUEL, CAN-0-SPRAY TEST FUEL
IT MUST START OR ENGINE HAS PROBLEMS
FUEL DRIBBLE TESTS ARE 99% USELESS IF NOT DRY.
ONLY FUEL PRESSURE MATTERS, FOR SURE CRANKING
ANY DEAD ENGINE, AT PSI SPEC. PRESSURE.
M15A HAS VVT, IF STUCK VVT,STUCK ADVANCED,
THIS TO CAN FAIL.
ALL SPARK GOOD X4 , SO TEST FUEL IS NEXT
SPRAY IT TO INTAKE MAIN PIPE, FOR 3 SECONDS
AND ENGINE RUNS FOR 3 SECONDS AND STOPS
REPEAT AND BE SURE ENGINE SOUNDS GOOD.
IF YES FUEL PRESSURE IS DEAD WRONG

no car symptoms told at all just a HUNT, (sad)
guess engine is dead, me. why must I guess it?
USA cars years ago (EPA rule) moved it (main media filter) to the tank.
by law. (evap3 laws did that)
how many filters, well lots really.
2 in the tank, 1 is sock filter +1 main filter

and each injector has a 10micron filter inside.
sorry that be all facts.

well doing the tests wrong causes that, confusion.
we test fuel pressure at the FAIL not dribble tests.
EFI needs spec pressure and flow. or fails.
and you are cart before horse. (ASE logic) all
the engine must be good first. if dead fuel and spark are useless.
1,2,3, engine, spark , fuel , in that order are tested
here are the ordered tests:
the PCM cuts fuel if spark is detected dead or its precursors, CMP and CKP both,
it cuts fuel for IMMO fails(KEY) or SRS bags or its sensors tripped. scan it.
most of all this is tools ,meters and kills, all ASE methods

1. fuses all good. cab and engine bay all fuse boxes.!
2. IMMO lamp in cluster not unhappy glow, try both keys car came with new 1 at a time.
3. scan the PCM cranking any dead engine release key see P03xx DTC codes roll out to the tools screen. bingo,.
4. next is engine compression good. 150psi up.
5. now test all spark plugs for dead spark
6. all 6 COP coils have spark and new spark plugs and those nasty BOOTS on the replaced.!!!!
7. ok all good so for , last is fuel. cant burn fuel on any dead engine or dead spark so FUEL IS NO.
8. We test fuel pressure to spec at the fuel rail.
9. yes if gas is old or was,bad gas gunks all this up. all filters, all injectors.
10. the pump has the FPR regulator inside too.
11. W test for cranking pressure first not the prime pulse. pressure, the BOSCH pump is silent so no sound is normal, we only do pressure test. at the real and cranking, if engine runs (not told) we test next idle pressure, and WOT.
12. the service manual covers this, PSI and injector leak down tests. and injector balance tests and and more RTM? if pressure is low (out of spec. ) we check voltage at the pump cranking, 11vdc is par.
13. if dead voltage we check pump relay.

do not pull the TANK
TEST PRESSURE CRANKING AT STEP 8.
30PSI AND MORE IS COMMON. PER MANUAL



HARK:
INCLUDES FUEL PUMP, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, SENDING UNIT, FLOAT, FUEL RESERVOIR AND FUEL STRAINER FILTER.
EPA LAW MANDATE. (FOR FUME REDUCTIONS)

WHY ARE YOU DOING THIS ?
, there must be a reason,?
the injector forms sandwitch, from pressurized fuel rail
and the dry intake , manifold tunnels.
doing that causes a huge nasty breach of the fuel rail !
why not tell what you are doing or a problem or goal or a job.
why post dry, no story? there sure is one, for sure.
first off learn how EFI works
1: it injects fuel only when the PCM sees spark good
if the PCm detects bad spark it cuts fuel dead, 1 or 2 ways
so park if first noT FUEL see why , answer pure PCM logic, does that. by design, and no crash and burn as seen on TV
your tests are all wrong, eveny one.

1: first off the engine must be good, sorry no EFI ever runs a dead engine (weak maybe ,dead never)
check fuses,and scan the PCM for testing EFI or fail you will most times.
2; the spark must be good on all cylinders, tested by hand. (same way for 100 years, using a test spark plug.
3: we next test fuel pressure at the rail using a PSI fuel pressure gauge a tool every shop has. goes broke fast.
we test pressure cranking only on a dead engine. cranked a 2 person test, or can see the gauge past windshield.

see scotty do the DIY , dead engine test here called
cranks but will not start.

https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg


the fuel rail test only prove pump is dead if is dead.
the fuel port cracked open does to prove ever OEM spec fuel pressure. only a pressure gauge tool proves that.
cranked, and idling and WOT (wide open throttle for a 3 sec, max)
the acid test for pressure is up hill or the trick of using vacuum tool on the FPR to fool it.

post symptoms and not hunts, hunts are zero fun.
there is no such thing (switch)
no engine told, no country. USA answers only. 4.0-L or 4.7L?
I guess engine not told is dead.
now the rules for fuel.
all fuses GOOD and tank has clean fuel,.

1. if spark dies, PCM shuts off fuel for no crash and burn fires.
2. the air bags (SRS) sensors activated and the PCU sees that and cuts fuel. so far 2 things normal.(fuel)
3. fuel pump relay dead. (bad or PCM did it)fuel pump fuse blown?
4. FPR stuck open and fuel pressure near zero, oops wont run.
5. fuel pump dead (cranking) but not if 12vdc not making it to pump.
6. some PCM cut spark and fuel if oil pressure is 0 zero.
7. some owners add this phantom switch, see it but I can inspect the fuel lines front to end in 15min work to see IT'S NOT THERE. eyeballs only checked.

so dead engine?
check for spark first not fuel first, do not buy parts guessing.

spark must be tested, at all spark plugs not just 1.
if all are dead , CMP sensor may be dead. or CKP
both engines are chain drive cam, 4.7L is SOHC head chains
and the chains can go 250,000 miles easy (clean oil)
no miles told no chain noise told
if spark works , test fuel runs the engine (spray starting fuel)
if not check engine compression
fuel is last.
takes a good engine + spark to burn fuel.(gasoline ,not CRD jeeps)
I have 3.7L smaller version in ,my WK jeep. 4.7l too has 3 chains

if all is good., we check fuel pressure at the rail with a guage
and spec is.
(49.2 psi +/- 5 psi) WJ jeep it is. 2000.
the FPR regulates this pressure for sure cranking a dead engine
not at KEYON< but cranked or running, pressures.

did you swap that plug to another cylinder?

vast checks. really!
EGR stuck open?
but can save the stall, with a fast right foot action,
using the wrong cap with a non suz, missing vacuum breaker will stall the pump an then engine.
stalls can be.
1: engine issues, (compression bad on one or more cyl.)
2: bad spark
3: bad fueling. in that order.
if compression good and spark at all cylinders are good.
the you check fueling.
1: are spark plugs dry , white or black carbon, and/ or dripping in fuel?
reading spark plugs works on all gas engine. 100 years span. to now.
Google how to read spark plugs.
this engine is EFI. and as such can do lots of things.
leaking injectors. clogged , or dead.
low fuel pressure.
too high fuel pressures.
at the least

scanning would be the next requirement to get an accurate diagnoses

have the intake gasket checked. spray carb/choke cleaner around intake gasket and if rpms change then you have a bad gasket which causes rough idle bad fuel econ

Make sure you have fuel and sufficient spark to that particular cylinder. If you fuel air and spark the cylinder will fire.

it sounds like you may have the wires on the wrong coil. It should be #1 on the #4 coil, and the #3 wire on the #2 coil. you probably have them backwards so 1 and 3 are firing on the exhaust stroke.
the firing order is 1-3-4-2.
they should be hooked like this.