Engine smells like rubber burning and temperature gauge at normal temperature. Water/coolant leaking out of reservoir and needs to be filled ever 2 days. Oil level is normal, but when it's hot outside the engine smells like burning rubber. I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it.

low operating temperatures is an indication of an air lock in the cooling system
gauges need the sender unit to be fully immersed in coolant to work but if they are not then the variable resistance material in the sender bulb cannot accurately relate to the coolant temperature
example if you have leak develop in a good system and you do not regularly scan your gauges like a good drive will do. it is possible that you will smell a dying engine yet when yo look at the gauge it will be reading cool to cold because the coolant has dropped to a point where the sender is no longer in contact with the coolant

there is either a pocket of air or the car is burning the coolant if there is no leak. check inside the car for any coolant leaking under the dash if so the heater core has a hole in it.

If the temp gauge is at normal, then what makes you think it is overheating? Are you experiencing water being forced out of the cooling under pressure? That is what makes some think the car is overheating. White smoke from the pipe can be normal, but only for a short time after start-up. If you smell the exhaust and can smell an anti-freeze odor in it, then you probably have a blown head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block. This can cause over-pressurization of the cooling system and coolant overflow. Usually, overheating accompanies this issue and is normally the original cause of it as well.

Get the coolant pressure tested,its definitely leaking coolant.You will need to get the coolant running line.
Pressure test will help you to know from where exactly coolant/refrigerant is getting leaked.===========For complete step by step troubleshooting i suggest you to go through the help links mentioned below :----Click the link below :-----

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• Replacing Oldsmobile Engine coolant sensor?

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These details will help.

Thanks.

If the system is loosing coolant, it has be leaking from some place, either from a connection, gasket or out of the tail pipe. When you refilled the cooling system, did you start the engine and inspect the vehicle while it was running and at operating temp?

Hello moltn, quite often people completely fill their coolant reservoir, ( the plastic bottle with the cap that says, " coolant " ), If you haven't already, make sure that the coolant level in the reservoir isn't over the FULL line. When it is overfilled, and the engine runs for a few minutes, the heat builds some pressure and forces the extra coolant out through an overfill hose. That overfill hose usually drains, on the ground, in the general area your leak is comming from.
If that is NOT the problem;

Next, we need to find out if it leaks all the time, or, if it only leaks under pressure, ( when the engine is running and warmed up ).

Start the vehicle just long enough to back it up 2 or 3 feet and then turn the engine back off. Raise the hood and visually inspect the area where you seem to leaking from. Allow about 10 minutes and then look to see if you have a new puddle under the vehicle.

If it's a non-pressure leak, you should be able to spot it right away, most likely a loose hose clamp, If so, first look closely at the condition of the hose, if it looks okay go ahead and tighten the clamp, ( you often only need about 1 full turn on the screw/nut that tightens the clamp.)
As rubber hoses age they lose some of their integrity, so clamp should be checked atleast every six months.

If you find nothing leaking, it is likely a pressure leak that is often the result of the engine and coolant reaching their operating temperature and as they do the heat builds perssure and will usually force coolant out of any weak links in the cooling system.

Let the engine run 6 to 8 minutes to allow the vehicle to get to its normal operating temperature.
Look at your temperature gauge, your needle should be about in the middle. Go back and look in the engine compartment again and visually inspect for signs of leaks. You should be able to locate any pressure leaks at this point. As before, if you locate the leak, and it is at a hose, do a good visual inspection of the hose, and the clamp.

Good luck my friend!

Unless your gauge is faulty you engine probably is not overheated. Any vehicle engine at normal operating temperature is hot. I'm guessing but I bet your normal operating temperature is about 185 degrees. You say it is "leaking cold water". Were you using the air conditioner when this took place? If so that is normal condensation. As for the burning smell I would look at the exaust area to see if a piece of trash has caused it.

clean the engine compartment and fill the radiator start the car and let it idle until you find the coolant leak

A complete drain and refill of the cooling system at 50,000 miles (80, 000km) and afterwards at least every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 3 years will remove the accumulated rust, scale and other deposits. The recommended coolant is a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol and water for year-round use. Choose a good quality antifreeze with water pump lubricants, rust inhibitors and other corrosion inhibitors, along with acid neutralizers.

1. Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
2. Remove the splash shield from the front of the front sub frame and body.

Before opening the radiator petcock, spray it with some penetrating lubricant.

1. Place a suitable container under the petcock.
2. Remove the reservoir bottle pressure cap.
3. Attach a length of rubber hose to the draincock. This will help to direct the coolant flow into the drain pan.
4. Drain the existing coolant by opening the radiator petcock.
5. Close the petcock and install the splash shield.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Determine the capacity of the coolant system, then properly refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of fresh coolant and water, as follows:
   1. Fill the reservoir bottle with coolant until it reaches the top of the cold fill mark on the bottle.
   2. Reinstall the bottle pressure cap.
   3. Select the maximum heater temperature and blower motor speed settings. Position the control to discharge air at the A/C vents in the instrument panel.
   4. Start the engine and allow it to idle until hot air is coming from the A/C vents.
   
   
8. If the air discharge from the A/C vents remains cool and the temperature gauge does not move, the engine coolant is low in the engine and must be filled. Turn the engine OFF , allow the engine to cool and add coolant through the reservoir bottle as described earlier and replace the cap.
9. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Hot air should come from the A/C vents. The engine coolant temperature gauge should maintain a stabilized reading within the normal range and the upper radiator hose should feel hot to the touch.
10. Shut off the engine and allow it to cool.
11. If available, install a pressure tester and check for leaks. If a pressure tester is not available, run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (allowing the system to naturally pressurize), then check for leaks.

CAUTION If you are checking for leaks with the system at normal operating temperature, BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to touch any moving or hot engine parts. Once the temperature has been reached, shut the engine OFF, and check for leaks around the hose fittings and connections which were removed earlier.

1. Check the level of protection with an antifreeze/coolant hydrometer
2. If this is helpful please leave positive feedback.
3. Thanks, snugglpants

U need to use 50/50 mixture of long life/extendedlife coolant availible from any automotive parts store for around $8 per gallon. but you must have a leak, check for coolant leaking when the car is running, don't overheat this engine or u will blow the cylinder head gasket, a $1000.00 repair.