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If you dont know anything about the ECU.... I would take it to the dealer.... I had the same problem....ECU had to be replaced....they know what they're doing. I was out of there in a couple hours.
there should be 4 sensors in the system two are normal O2 sensors that are located after the cat converter and two are heated sensors HO2S sensors located before the cat converter. Use the special sensor removal/installer tool so that the wires are not damaged . If you only replace d 2 sensors then you may have missed the faulty unit. The check engine light will stay on until you reset it with a scanner
Disconnect your battery first, raise the vehicle as high as possible and make sure you place 2 solid car stands (DO NOT LEAVE ON JACK) under vehicle, you will see the alternator on the front drivers side, remove all the electrical connections, plug, cable etc. if it has a plug it will also have a locking tab, make sure you press the tab otherwise you will not be able to remove, take note of wires and where they go. It will still have the alternator belt on it, this should not cause any problems, if you can loosen the adjuster and take the belt off it will be out of your way but not essential. Undo the upper and lower retaining bolt/nut on the alternator and gently slide out. When reinstalling make sure the belt is at correct tension. It is also worth noting that a lot of vehicles with codes on stereos and alarms may need resetting once the battery is connected!!!
you cant check the plugs without the right tool to do this with
you can change them but only take out one plug at a time so you done mix up the plug leads,,, if you have the tools to do this job
This is because of the ignition system, Check the ignition system with the appropriate technician to get it done. In the mean time check the alternator and the rectifier sections too.
You need to pull the radio out, get the serial # off of it and take it to the dealer. They can get you the unlock code for the radio unless someone has changed it.
problem is that the voltage regulators on the 1.8t which I am sure is the same on the TDI alternator....is that they may work fine when they are cold....but once they warm up is when they start acting up and causing problems. I assume is has to do with some resistor over heating. This is just a common problem noticed by most people over at VWvortex.com.
So you can take your alternator to get tested but if it is tested cold then well it may appear to be working ok. When in reality it is broken. Trust me...it is a cheap enough part and easy enough to fix to not just try it. Some can even change the regulator without taking the alternator out. If you have small enough hands I can see it being done.
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