1990 YJ Clutch at very top... is it pressure plate, or adjustment?

where does the clutch engage, right at the bottom of the pedal travel or right at the top ? if at the top the pressure plate is faulty, if right at the bottom it is the clutch plate that is worn. if it is a hydraulic system they have no adjustment.

Agreed. The clutch disk is likely worn. The pressure plate is self adjusting so there is no adjustment available on stock Audi pressure plates or indeed in most pressure plates.

Another possible cause is a leaking rear main engine seal that is allowing engine oil to seep and then be thrown around the bell housing and work its way onto the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate.

Test you clutch in 3-4 gear acceleration from a slow speed...if the engine speed flares faster than the car accelerates, you have a worn/bad clutch.

Hi Timothy, The clutch plate is fitted between the gearbox and the engine. Adjustment is carried out by lengthening or shortening the push rod. Some manufactures have adjustments between the slave cylinder and the clutch folk (underneath the vehicle) while others have adjustments between the top of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder, and others require replacement of the rod with shorter or longer, depending if the clutch is engaging to low or too high. If the clutch is slipping it will probably be too late for adjustment and require replacement of the clutch plate and possibly the clutch cover (pressure plate) and maybe the thrust bearing, Regards John

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt hatchback and sedan w/ 1.6L engine, 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.8L engine, and 1990-93 Vista

Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch driven and drive discs - 1990-93 all models

Fig. Fig. 3: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.5L engine, 1991-92 Colt hatchback and sedan w/4-speed and 1993 Colt hatchback and sedan w/1.8L engine

1. Remove the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
2. Insert a pilot shaft or an old input shaft into the center of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
3. With the pilot tool supporting the clutch disc, loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually and in a crisscross pattern.
4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
5. Clean the transmission and clutch housing. Clean the flywheel surface with a non-oil based solvent. Wash your hands before installing or handling the clutch assembly parts. Hold the clutch disc by the center hub only.

Before assembly, slide the clutch disc up and down on the transmission input shaft to check for any binding. Remove any rough spots with crocus cloth and then lightly coat the shaft with Lubriplate.

1. To remove the throwout bearing assembly: Remove the return clip and take out the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing.
2. To replace the throwout arm use a / 16 in. punch, knock out the throwout shaft spring pin and remove the shaft, springs, and the center lever.
3. Do not immerse the throwout bearing in solvent; it is permanently lubricated. Blow and wipe it clean. Check the bearing for wear, deterioration, or burning. Replace the bearing if there is any question about its condition.
4. Check the shafts, lever, and springs for wear and defects. Replace them if necessary.
5. If you hadn't planned on replacing the clutch disc, examine it for the following before reusing it. Loose rivets. Burned facing. Oil or grease on the facing. Less than 0.3mm left between the rivet head and the top of the facing.
6. Check the pressure plate and replace it if any of the following conditions exist: Scored or excessively worn. Bent or distorted diaphragm spring. Loose rivets.
7. Insert the control lever into the clutch housing. Install the two return springs and the throwout shaft.
8. Lock the shift lever to the shaft with the spring pin.
9. Fill the shaft oil seal with multipurpose grease.
10. Install the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing. Install the return clip.
11. Grease the carrier groove and inner surface.
12. Lightly grease the clutch disc splines.

The clutch is installed with the larger boss facing the transmission.

1. Support the clutch disc and pressure plate with the pilot tool.
2. Turn the pressure plate so that its balance mark aligns with the notch in the flywheel.
3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts head-tight. Using a torque wrench and, working in a crisscross pattern, tighten the bolts to 11-15 ft. lbs.
4. Install the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
5. Adjust the clutch as described in the following information.

Either needs to be adjusted or it's in wrong.

caster is adjusted at the rear of the lower control arms. Camber is fixed and cannot be adjusted by normal means (though special off-set ball joints are available to do that) Toe in is adjusted by turning the sleeves in or out on the tie rod ends. None of this should be done at home though crude adjustments can be made in order to get the front end reasonably straight. Adjustments are made on an alignment machine that allows precise adjustments to all you mentioned as well as front/rear tracking.

It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging the engine from the tranny.
Just as the truck would if you'd come to a stop and not step on the clutch, the engine would die.
There should be an adjustment for this. However if you have many miles on the pressure plate / throw out bearings, it maybe time for a new set.

More than likely a bad clutch.

If its a cable clutch adjust it by tighten it.If its hydraulic then the pressure plate is week change the clutch assembly

no, there is no clutch adjustment. the clutch is hydraulic, and self adjusting, there are several things that can go wrong with these. with normal wear the fluid can run low allowing air into the system, causing a weak peddle. they can also develop leaks in the master and slave cylinders resulting in fluid loss also causing a weak peddle leading to an inopperative clutch. check the fluid level in the clucth master cylinder(next to the brake master cylinder. if it is empty, refill it(it takes brake fluid) then cycle the clutch peddle a few times and check for leaks. if there is air trapped in the line the clutch will need to be bled. there is a bleeder screw on top of the slave cylinder, bleed it just like bleeding brakes.