Question about AC Cars & Trucks
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If the AC is on or the setting is on defrost, this will be normal as long as the compressor is operational.
Posted on Aug 22, 2015
SOURCE: 88 Bronco ii Coolant not circulating
Good Day,
Sounds like the thermostat is working properly, the only other cause for the valve/lifter noise could be the oil pump is not pumping enough oil up to the top of the motor. I suggest doing an oil change(if you haven'y aleready), be sure to flush several quarts through, after sitting for 5 years I'm sure the old oil is pretty sludgy, this well help rule out this possibilty. As far as the water pump goes, It either works or doesn't typically when they are on there way out the will leak from the gaskets. A bad head gasket would cause white smoke form the exhaust as coolant get's into the oil and is burned off, so I don;t hink this is the problem.
Here's a start for you, hope this helps and good luck
Posted on Jul 01, 2008
SOURCE: How can I flush my whole coolant system
Preferable to flush as much out as possible to get rid of the old stuff and can be done at home by undoing the heater hose at the fire wall and using the garden hose to force water through until it comes out clean Dont turn hose on full blast as it will spray out over everything build up to it so it doesnt make a mess.Make sure the heater is in the on position so that water comes out the pipe you took the hose off.Either way though it will still be ok to just undo the bottom radiator hose as the majority of it will come out.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
SOURCE: engine overheating-----1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4 liter v/6
There seems to be an air pocket or no antifreeze in engine block. Try this method disconnect upper radiator hose and pour water directly into hose down into engine block until it full. when its filled reconnect hose and fill up radiator. as the vehicle warms up open bleeder valve on the thermostat housing and release air from system. open slowly and BE VERY CAREFUL WATER WILL BE HOT, bleed until you get a steady stream opening and cosing valve. However if all of this don't work. You may have a bad pump. Good Luck
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
SOURCE: can't find coolant leak
This sounds like you have two problems: a vacuum leak and a coolant leak. First the hissing sound you are hearing is more than likely a slow vacuum leak caused by a disintegrating rubber PCV elbow. The length of the PCV tube is mostly plastic with a foam rubber insulator. At each end are rubber connectors that joint an engine vacuum port (near the throtle body) to the PCV valve. The "connectors" are made of a cheap rubber that disintegrates with the presence of oil. Replace the tube with an updated part number from Ford. These are easy to over look and often missed. Next, the coolant over heating issue. I would have the system pressure tested by an independent, reputable Radiator shop. Nowadays most technicians use an infarred thermo-sensing device (you can get yourself one at Sears for about 70 bucks). You should start the vehicle and allow it warm-up normally. Once the vehicle has been running long enough check the difference in temperature of the thermostat housing (looking at the transverse-mounted engine the front of the motor is facing the passengers side of the vehicle, the thermostat housing is on the drivers' side just under the coil-pack for the ignition) and the upper portion of the radiator. Keep in mind the thermostat is the most common leak point for these engines. If there is a major difference and the radiator is relativly cold, then the radiator is plugged and needs to be replaced or this could indicate the thermostat is stuck closed. If the upper radiator hose is hot and feels firm, then I would suspect the radiator being plugged. If the Hose feels relatively cool and soft, I would suspect the thermostat.
My guess is that the thermostat housing is leaking. This is a very common problem with these. If you find that the housing is leaking, you should also find that there is probably stagnant coolant on the top of the bell housing of the transaxle, located directly beneath the thermostat housing. At this point you should replace the thermostat housing, thermostat and gasket (usually sqaure rubber).
Hope this gives some direction and helps you!
Posted on May 20, 2009
SOURCE: 1995 Chrysler Cirrus overheating
Probably not water pump. Engine is notourious for vapour lock.
Cooling system must be blead of air before thermostat will work. Cool bottom rad hose is a dead give away. If you are still watching this forum reply , and I will walk you through the only way I know how to make it work properly. It's actually easy if you do it my way. I have worked on lots of cars , and this engine was the hardest to bleed out. Did one Yesterday , and works perfect.
Posted on May 16, 2010
Testimonial: "I need help on how to bleed the system thanks"
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I should add the outside temp. is 75 and humidity is 90%. Ran the engine about 20 minutes with heater on high. Condensate drained the entire time.
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