I have replaced calipers on my jeep 4 times. The front side on the passenger side twice. The driver side went out next and then my back rear. Now my jeep is doing the same thing by slowing down and I smell this same smell. I assume its the back rear passenger side. Why do I have to keep replacing my calipers. The thing is when I replace them, I have to replace my brakes too. When I replaced the front ones it did have a warranty on it but the problem is paying someone to repair it. Can someone please tell me what is the problem.
REDUX (lack of input facts big time here)
ok the brakes do drag. (bad)
ok the pads die fast, less than 1month.
how many do that? all 4?
and pads are burning up., all 4?
are you doing the diagnose?? here??
or getting a real brake shop to do all steps
1 test drive
2 diagnosis and visual inspections of parts, leaks, damage, etc, clipper pins not stuck...
3 scan ABS?
4 then correct problem.(parts swaps)
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=631836&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15529&modelYear=2004&searchString=cluster
or are you doing all steps 1 to 3
then just ordering a shop to replace random parts blindly(in fact wrong parts, now proven by you)
that is correct, replacing caliper with a system that has pressure , parked, is a waste of time an cash....
if you saw drag, a tech checks for pressure on the line, first. this is SOP, standard operating procedures.
why not get a real brake shop to diagnose this.
best i can tell car has bad ABS modulator or MC.
(or even bad behind MC linkage preventing mc from full retraction, very very very dangerous this.)
the shop will test for drag, then find that to be true here.
then will crack the lines to find which line has pressure , He will find that if it does
and will know that "state" is WRONG.
he will then find how far up stream this pressure is coming from. and will find it. (tests, ask)
(the "crack" word means loosening a fittings and seeing if it's under huge pressure, (a skill set)
in fact a real shop has a gauge that can be inserted and pressure checked accurately.
tools and skills... win and save CASH,!
so which do you want? how to test, how to guess.
or what?
what i need is one question answered
are you guessing?
or is it your bad mech, tech, guessing all this.?
not stated in your posts.
who's in charge here? (simple q)
I can explain it to you , but never your tech.
see?
Testimonial: "Replacing the calipers 1 month or less apart. Miles on the jeep is 156K. When the calipers are replaced the brakes are too. I can tell when something is wrong because it starts to smell and slow down."
I will check on the emergency brake and the abs light. Thanks.
the smell is over heated dragging pads.
if not doing emergency stops!
if only rears smoke/ smell, the emg, cable or emg.system is stuck. (1 or 2 possibles)
i guess you know that braking turns forward inertial moving mass , to heat right?
laws:
(energy can not be destroyed, only converted)
it makes tons of heat and heat makes things smoke and stink. Just like my cooking...burnt.
now my guess. (most are useless, only tests win!)
ABS modulator never purged in 12 years
its full of corrosion and is stuck inside.
(if not the MC , same deal)
MC = master cylinder on the fire wall.
Veronica, who is doing all the testing
YOU, or them.? not stated/?????
simple answer.
the system has failed and is dragging the brakes x4. and is not CALIPERS bad.
can't get more simple than that. evidence.
30 days, repeats. is clear.
what to gue$$ or test ? your call.
if one caliper failed, it can be a bad hose(inside).
but not all 4.
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Wonder if the rotors are too slim. If this happens the brakes get too hot as the rotor radiates away the heat. If too hot the brakes could wear out faster.
Testimonial: "Thanks."
the rotors will not cause drag.
nor if not ROUGH, Kill pads in 30 days.
thin will run hotter, sure.
but that thin is crazy thin, and is not allowed ever. (see size (thick spec)marks on rotor for thickness, bingo believe it.
my guess ran car for 156k and same fluid in system for 12 long years.
right, OPP (there will be lots of bad found)
i promise. the fluid is hygroscopic.
think of DOT3/4 fluid as a water sponge.
and then corrodes the metal parts deep in the system, where you can not see.
I purge mine every year, to prevent this.
that is the cause.
only the extent of damage is in question.
that takes testing and inspections...
which someone (wink) is not doing.
does steering pull braking to stop.
do brakes feel funny, spongy, stick, fall to floor pressed, tires skid easy(any), ?
pedal pulsate, pedal too low... so many symptoms,,,,
do brakes need pumping ever?
costs can get real expensive if major ABS parts are (damaged)
hint 2, the ABS has special bleeding steps
ask?
your mech will take note of all odd things about the brakes, including scanning the ABS to see if it has errors.
The ABS might even DTC error that it is dead or jammed up. (no response)
but not scanning it , that be bad news.
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Thanks. I will take it to a brake shop or maybe Chrysler Jeep. I tried to tell the mechanic I shouldn't have to replace the calipers constantly. The mechanic said the car has a lot of miles on it and that's why. Thanks you have been a great help.
yah, he just doesn't want to do the tests.
he's just a , gee it must be bad 4 caliper guy, if not, must be too old. LOL !!!!!
next time use a real ASE shop, these guys know what testing means. (or fail the school)
this is a simple hard fail car.
not some wild fails for 1 second , 1 once a month
hard nut to crack intermittent.
you have line pressure , foot of pedal.
any good mech can work that...
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