Just a suggesion after reading all your posts, It soulds like your coil resistor pack is bad, to find out put a hot wire to the positive side of the coil straight from the battery, crank the motor and see it it gets spark if it does let me know and I will tell you how to fix it.
I am a twenty five year Ford dealer technician, u don't mention that you have replace the distributor stator or the TFI ignition module, these are the MOST COMMON parts to fail, in fact there are class action law suits due to the huge numbers of failures.
here is how you replace the ignition switch (electrical switch, not key cylinder) remove the trim panel below the steering column, just a few screws to do that, once the panel is off remove the two nuts (15mm I think) that secure the column to the lower dash support, drop the column down and rest it on the seat, near the base of the column where it goes through the firewall you will see the switch with a large wire connector to it, remove the wire connector safety clip, remove the connector from the switch, then remove the two nuts holding the switch to the column tube, pay attention to the adjustment of the old switch, the holes are slotted for adjustment, lift the switch up and off the rod that actuates it from the key cylinder, u will see the rod goes into a slot in the bottom of the switch, move the slot on the new switch to the same position as the old switch with a small screwdriver, reinstall in reverse order. i have posted a picture of the switch but if you can't see it go to the link below http://www.nextag.com/mercury-ignition-switch/compare-html
u can also call me if u have another question about the removal or the ignition module
925-577-7157
×
Have you had the OBD codes read??
Camshaft and crankshaft position sensors work in combination inside the ECM to let the ignition system know when to fire.
Without both signals there will be no spark.
Look into it.
Thanks
I read all your actions taken up to this point. What an adventure.
The final point is there is no spark producing at the ignition coil right?
In theory the voltage at the primary coil needs to be on and off to generate high voltage on the secondary coil which has a wire going into the distributor Cap. You want to confirm everything works from the coil, so you can find out what causing the coil is not working. Here are what to do:
1- Disconnect the Positive cable on the battery.
2- Hook a spark plug directly to the coil wire ( the one to get to the distribution cap)
3- Find a long double wire so you can connect from the terminals of the primary coil to the battery.
4- Connect each wire end to the terminal of the primary coil. It doesn't matter which polarity.
5- Connect 1 wire to the frame ground.
6- Hold the other wire and quickly swipe it over the positive terminal of the battery.
7- You should see or hear a spark. If this is the case your coil is good. If itis not, your coil is bad and it need a replacement. Problem is solved.
4- If the coil is good, the problem would be from the Ignition Module back to the ignition key: No electrical signal to turn on the coil.
Good luck.
Have you checked electronic ignition module?
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c
To replace the ignition, a working key is required, turn to "on" position and depress retainer.
Leave the steering wheel alone, it doesn't do anything. May
have to remove the shroud, but there is usually a hole already there to push the
retainer.
Benjamin
You have checked all fuses leading to the ignition and all relays already, correct? Sometimes you can miss a simple thing like this.
×
Try to change your pick up it is the electronic model in the bottom of the distributer if you still have no fire i dont know how many miles are on it but there are a couple of reasons why it wouldnt have spark i will try to help u figure this out but please dont leave me bad feedback as i dont know the whole story but im willing to resolve this problem with u let me know what happens and will figure it out thank you
As I can not see your original post, could you please give me a quick run down on what problem is (obviously no start) , what you've tried etc, and engine size in your cougar, as well as ignition style, as in the duraspark version or TFI -IV.
Have you checked inertia switch, in trunk behind panel on drivers side usually. Does it have module that attaches to distributor, (about 5-6 inches long by 1-1/2 to 2 inches wide) if yes, has that module been tested or replaced yet?
What about fusible links, all checked out?
×
250 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Here is the original posthttp://www.fixya.com/cars/t2512677-85_me...
The distributor is new. The problem existed on the old distributor, and we thought perhaps the distributor itself might have been the culprit, so it has been changed.
Is the ignition riveted to the column? If so, how does it come off? How do I replace it without rivets?
I have replaced the ignition module, the coil, the distributor, the fuel pump relay, the ecu, and i am about to replace the ignition switch. I cannot understand what causes the ignition to not produce a spark. ALSO, it does not pump fuel through the injectors. the fuel reaches the throttle body, but, the injectors do not launch fuel into the head, and the spark plugs do not fire because there is no spark from the coil.
I want everyone to know I appreciate the help.
I have replaced the ignition module. I have checked the fuses under the dash. I did not see any fuses in the engine compartment.
Well, Without doing all that, I will assume the coil is good, because I have replaced the coil twice, and when I replaced it the 2nd time I got a call back saying the first coil i took back tested fine. Also, when I key on the ignition, the 12v tester says I am getting juice to the coil. Right now though, i have reached an impasse because I have killed my battery and must first replace it before I can proceed further. I thank you for everything you said though. As far as a sensor in the trunk, would that sensor cause the fuel injector to not-inject fuel into the block, even though there is fuel pressure from the pump to the throttle body?
I want to repost, not because I doubt anyones solution, I just need as much input as possible, thank you all so much.
Wow, thanks so much! I will recommend those be replaced next. As for the switch, it looks like it is riveted on, but I was told, to use a hack saw and saw a groove into it just deep enough for a flat head screw driver, then back the screws out, but since I dont get a second chance, I wanna make sure i got it right the first time. BTW, yes, that is the ignition switch (not the barrel assembly) in the photo you enclosed. I have a haynes manual but it covers the general ideas and not the model year specifics of my car, so I wanted to be extra careful. It is the only car I got, and borrowing my sisters truck no fun at all, especially because its a death trap, lol. When My car ran, she ran like a sewing machine. If I didnt pay attention, I would be doing 85 without knowing it. But she just died one day. Would the issues you stated ALSO cause the fuel injectors to fail, even though the gas is being pushed into the throttle body?
As for the stator, if I am not mistaken, the stator came with the distributor that I got from Auto Zone for a 1986 (my cars an 85 and a half, so some stuff is 86).
As for the TFI, i am not sure what that is, but, I looked it up at advance auto parts website and saw a TFI coil. I replaced the coil twice. I feel like a man trying to remove his own appendix...
×