Gap for tappets for 2.5 tdci engine - Ranger Ford Cars & Trucks

This will depend on whether that engine uses mechanical or hydraulic tappets. I think that model and year still used the mechanical type. Mechanical ones need a gap, hydraulic ones don't. If yours is the 2e engine, (most versions were), the clearance gap will be 5.965-5.980 mm (0.2348-0.2354 in.)

setting is 0 their is no gap

Top dead center cylinder 1 measure tappit gap loosen nut on adjuster use screwdriver to lessen or increase gap keeping driver in addition tighten nut making sure adjuster doesn't rotate check gap again readjust if necessary repeat for other tappet
top dead center cylinder 2 and repeat above same for each cylinder
if the engine is an overhead cam the above won't work

You put a stage 2 cam in, ask the camshaft provider what gaps he recommends

The firing order is 1-3-4-2. The gap is listed on the emission information sticker under the hood. This sticker will have lots of info which includes valve lash. It will be listed in millimeters, example: 0.22 +/- .02mm. Some feeler gauges list both standard and mm measurements, otherwise a conversion can be found without much trouble. This procedure should be done while the engine is cold to get the best results.

If your not sure then do a me 12th inlet and 15 exhaust this will cover most cooking engines but not some GT older models .Yes iam aware what the so called bar room mechanics say about my advice but so long as it has a gap then it will run .All old british leyland engines were around this figure but some ford GT engine had wide gaps and clattered but ?? and some renaults had gaps as small as 4th and 8 th but this honda comes underthe catagory of what we call in the trade cooking engines .IE to go to the shops in and the school run

You will need a "tappet gauge/blade" and then here is what you have to do:
1. open engine head, its the cover of engine where HONDA is written.
2. Now jack up and one side of the car and put the car in 4th gear
3. Start from any one side, if the tappet is not in "UP" position then rotate the wheel (the jacked up side of car) and once the tappet moves up, stop there.
4. Loosen the nut of the tappet and put the tappet blade in between the tappet gap. Now using screw driver, tighten the tappet so that blade fits snugly between the gap and without moving anything (blade and screw driver) ask a helper to tighten the tappet nut finally.
5. Repeat above procedure for each tappet.

If you do it carefully, there will be no tappet sound at all.

Hi,
The method of adjusting the tappets is the same on most engines that don't have hydraulic tappets.
The gap between rocker arm pad and the top of the valve stem is important for several reasons - to allow for expansion of the metal, to ensure that the valve is fully closed when needed, and to ensure the smooth running/timing of the engine.


The rocker cover gasket or oil filler cap leak eventually over a period of time and the top of the engine gets in a right mess, like the one shown here.
Remove the filler (series have a 7/16" bolt in the side of the cover to retain the filler)
The heater hoses are held by one of the three acorn nuts that hold the rocker cover on. Remove the center nut, and then slacken the 10mm pinch bolt enough for the pipe support to be removed.
Remove the other two acorn nuts and alloy washers, then the rocker cover will lift away.
Each tappet should have a locknut and slotted thread - you will need a 13mm ring spanner and blade screwdriver.
Starting at the front of the engine - turn the crankshaft by way of the crank bolt until No2 valve is open. The camshaft lobe for No1 is now out of the way and the tappet for it can be adjusted. Undo the locknut a couple of turns - if the threaded part turns as well, then keep it still with a screwdriver.
Insert the right thickness blade in the gap between the rocker pad and top of the valve stem and turn the tappet thread until the blade is slightly pinched. Keep the screwdriver dead still and tighten the locknut.
You may find that the tappet gap will close too much when you tighten the locknut. If that happens, then re-set the gap, allowing for this. Work through all 8-tappets, making sure that you set the correct gap for the valve - inlet or exhaust. Once done - clean around the top of the head, the gasket faces, and the rocker cover inside and out. Sticky gaskets are very handy.
Refit the cover, use new alloy washers on the three studs, and re-attach the heater hose clamp.
For pictures you can refer to: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8023

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8 valve engine ,intake cold 0.13 to 0.17mm hot 0.23 to 0.27 exhaust cold 0.16 to 0.20 hot 0..26 to 0.30 mm 16 valve engine (intake and exhaust) cold 0.13 to 0.17mm and hot is 0.17 to 0.21mm